ERITREA
Eritrea is a small country located in the Horn of Africa, bordered by Ethiopia to the south, Sudan to the west, and the Red Sea to the east. It gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993 after a long and bloody civil war. The country's population is approximately six million people, and it is known for its diverse cultural heritage, ancient ruins, and stunning landscapes. Despite its natural beauty, Eritrea is one of the poorest nations in the world, and its people have suffered from decades of conflict and political instability. Despite these challenges, however, Eritrea has a rich history and culture and is a fascinating destination for travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.
VISA
The visa for Eritrea is notoriously one of the toughest to get. As an American, I sent my passport and all my documents to the embassy in Washington DC, but if you live in Europe, Berlin is probably the best embassy to obtain the visa. These are the following documents I sent to the embassy:
• Physical passport
• Visa application (Note: the photo you have to affix is insanely tiny, I had to go to a photo place and show them the application to make sure we got one that fix exactly within the parameters)
• Flight / Hotel / Itinerary / Employment letter (these aren't necessary according to the website, but I included them so there would be no reason to refuse my application)
• Last month's bank statement (proof of sufficient funds)
• $55 USD money order ($50 for visa, $5 for mail processing)
• Self-addressed express priority mail envelope (express isn't necessary but after waiting on your passport without any sign of life, you're gonna want it!)
I mailed everything off and didn't hear anything until 10 business days after they received it (about 3 weeks, they only work Mondays - Thursdays) when I got a rare call from the embassy to verify how many days I would be visiting Eritrea. They said they would be sending my passport back within the next day but it was sent the following week. In total it took about a month and the visa is valid for 3 months after approval. Note, they don't answer the phone or email if you try contacting them. Yes, it drove me crazy.
ENTRY TO ERITREA
All that was required upon boarding was the visa and vaccination card.
Once the plane lands in Asmara, you're taken to a waiting area to do a rapid test on arrival.
Immigration was friendly and took awhile to input all the info into the system but stamped my passport, no questions asked.
Right after immigration you'll see a currency exchange office on the left. As credit cards are not accepted and there are no ATMs, you should exchange money here. Rates are good anyways but you can always exchange more at your hotel. The office was pitch black when I arrived as it was 11 PM at night so I almost just passed it assuming it was closed. I saw someone tap on the window and the woman was sleeping on the couch inside
The taxi shouldn't cost more than 200 - 300 Nakfas (between $14 - 20 USD) to the main part of the city. The driver was trying to charge me 400 but I insisted on 300 max. If you want a taxi that's guaranteed 200 Nakfas, contact Medhanie in advance (Whatsapp +2917403639)
STAYING CONNECTED
Internet is extremely poor in Eritrea and you cannot access most sites just on wifi. I didn't get a sim card, but I used a VPN called "HA Tunnel Plus," which is what all the locals use. Be sure to download it before your trip; there's tons of different settings and options but the local internet cafe people are wizards and can configure your phone easily if you have trouble.
WHERE TO STAY?
I stayed at the Crystal Hotel and breakfast was included. One of my favorite aspects was it’s right off the main strip and was a great location to walk everywhere. They also had a guide they recommended (Medhanie, who I mentioned above) for $40 for a day, $70 for two days. Just ask the front desk or contact him via whatsapp if you're interested!
What to see in asmara
From a photography standpoint these were my favorite spots around Asmara:
• Cinema Impero
• Fiat Tagliero
• Local markets: personal favorite was the metal-working market. The women also make spices here
• Bowling alley
I wandered around for hours just taking photos of the beautiful architecture and exploring the little shops, seemingly frozen in time.
To visit the tank graveyard you have to get a permit from the Ministry of Tourism office -- bring your passport. To visit other sights outside of Asmara you must secure permits from this office as well, which must be secured more than a day in advance. One of the ladies that works the front desk of Crystal Hotel said she could arrange a driver to Massawa as a 1-day trip for $100 or two days for $200. I found this helpful as there isn't much info online, and the tours that offer it charge a crazy amount of money. You also have to go with a special taxi / driver so when I asked Medhanie if he could take me, he said he could not. I asked other people at the hotel along with locals how to do this, but it wasn't until my second to last day I finally got the right info -- by the time I tried to secure a permit, it was too late. So I hope this helps those that want to visit independently!
One thing to note, most places seem to close for lunch around 11:30 AM and re-open around 3 PM. Nap culture is a big thing.
where to eat in asmara
Here are a few of my favorite spots to eat in Asmara:
• Ghibabo Restaurant for traditional food, all-around favorite restaurant and beautiful atmosphere
• Spaghetti for the best Italian-Eritrean food
• Sweet Asmara Cafe is a cute cafe, mostly for the Italian art deco vibe. I'm big on coffee but that part unfortunately didn't impress, pastries were pretty good
• Cinema Roma had the best coffee -- their macchiatos & cappuccinos were my personal faves. Loved the retro cinema film decor; cinemas haven't played movies since covid, but ask to see the actual theater
Final thoughts
As soon as I started walking around the morning after I arrived, locals would approach me left and right and were incredibly friendly. I was invited to coffee many times, people wanted to accompany me and show me around. Even though I'd offer to pay and then insist, they would refuse.
Locals also invited me to clubs, as this seems like the "thing" to do in the evenings. I was apprehensive as a solo female traveler because I usually don't go out past sunset for safety reasons. Clubs seem to be more like restaurants with a calm, dimly-lit ambiance where you can have food, drinks, and coffee -- not like the typical rowdy dance clubs I usually think of
I usually find that African cities are chaotic, but Asmara was super calm and quiet. People just leave their bicycles on the street unchained because there's no crime, they say. I never got approached aggressively or got unwanted attention like what usually happens as a solo female traveler. Dress is relaxed and I wore my usual jeans and t-shirt. Overall I found it a great place to explore independently and as a solo female traveler, and definitely has become one of my new favorite destinations to date.
