Everything you need to know about Lake Malawi

MALAWI

Lake Malawi, also known as Lake Nyasa, is a breathtaking freshwater lake located in East Africa. It is the third largest lake on the continent and is renowned for its crystal-clear waters, scenic shorelines, and remarkable diversity of fish species. The lake is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers visitors a serene setting for water-based activities such as snorkeling, diving, and kayaking. Surrounding the lake, vibrant local communities provide a rich cultural experience, while the diverse flora and fauna contribute to the area's ecological significance. From its stunning vistas to its ecological importance, Lake Malawi continues to captivate and inspire all who encounter its natural beauty.

WHAT PART OF LAKE MALAWI SHOULD I VISIT?

This was probably the biggest question I had when I was planning my trip to Malawi. Lake Malawi was the main place I wanted to visit, but it’s so big that I didn’t know what was the best area to visit. I’ll be breaking down all the main areas of Lake Malawi into an easy guide here. Things move very slowly here, so don’t expect to get anywhere fast!

Northern Malawi

Being the furthest north from the main cities of Blantyre and Lilongwe, northern Lake Malawi doesn’t see as much action as maybe the southern areas, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit!

KANDE: This is a pretty quiet beach if you’re looking for someplace to just relax.

NKHATA BAY: Known to be a fishing village, this is a great backpacker town where you can base yourself and do day trips.

CHITIMBA: If you’re overlanding from Tanzania or Zambia, this is a great start or end option since it’s located in the far north.

Where to stay in Northern Malawi

SOUL REBEL LODGE & BACKPACKERS: A budget friendly option located right on the lake in Nkhata Bay

BUTTERFLY SPACE ECO-LODGE: A beautiful beachfront stay and offers activities like yoga or kayaking, and even an airport transfer.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in the area.

CENTRAL MALAWI

Being closer to Lilongwe, this is a good option if you don’t have a lot of time to spend going all the way around the lake.

NKHOTAKOTA: A port town in central Malawi, don’t miss the Nkhotakota wildlife reserve, elephants, Mawira hot springs, Mwaya Beach, and the Chia Lagoon nearby.

LIKOMA & CHISUMULU ISLANDS: These are home to Malawi’s most luxurious lodges and can only be accessed by air or ferry from Chilumba.

SOUTHERN MALAWI

If I had to pick one part of Malawi to visit, this would be it! It’s very accessible compared to other parts of Malawi, but definitely a slower pace of life making it perfect to relax. If you’re planning on taking public transport I highly recommend setting aside a full day to get here or return since things are very slow.

CAPE MACLEAR: It’s the perfect jumping point to Domwe Island or Mumbo Island, which is actually where I stayed.

MONKEY BAY: Just south of Cape Maclear, Monkey Bay has a similar vibe. Enjoy the beaches, kayak, or explore the islands off the coast.

LILONDWE NATIONAL PARK: This is Malawi’s most popular national park and is just north of Blantyre. Try a riverboat safari, canoe safari, or a 4WD safari.

Where to stay southern malawi

THUMBI VIEW LODGE: So in Cape Maclear I originally stayed at Tranquilo Resort; I was actually between choosing Tranquilo versus Thumbi since they had similar pricing at the time, but ended up going with Tranquilo since the pictures online looked so much better. I have never felt more deceived by a booking description and I was so disappointed — the wifi didn’t work, the AC didn’t work, and it looked super desolate. The pool was drained, everything was falling apart, and no one else was staying there. I actually ended up walking by Thumbi and was in shock how beautiful the property was; it didn’t look anything like the pictures. Anyways, long story short, I hope this saves any other potential on-lookers if you’re deciding where to stay in Cape Maclear.

NORMAN CARR COTTAGE: Located in Monkey Bay, this is also a highly rated beachfront property.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in the area.

HOW TO GET AROUND MALAWI

bus

The main bus you can take around Malawi is AXA Coach Services, but Malawi is connected to the cities by mini bus as well. The hotels will insist on hiring a driver or taking their airport transfer, but insist you want to take the mini bus and they’ll tell you what stop to catch it.

ferry

There is the Ilala Ferry, but it’s quite slow and only goes once a week in each direction. It runs between Chilumba and Monkey Bay. You can check the timetables here.

car

Many hotels will offer airport transfers that will run around $175 each way, which is crazy expensive. If you’re with a group of people it’s worth it, but being a solo traveler like myself it was too much. I’ve heard of people renting cars, but personally after seeing the dirt roads to Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay I would advise against it unless you really know what you’re doing.

The Best Seychelles Itinerary

SEYCHELLES

Embark on a journey to the mesmerizing Seychelles, a harmonious archipelago in the Indian Ocean renowned for its pristine beaches, lush jungles, and untouched natural beauty. Picture-perfect white sands beckon to those seeking relaxation, while azure waters teem with vibrant marine life, making it a utopia for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts.

I spent four days exploring everything the islands have to offer, so here’s the best itinerary for the Seychelles. Special thanks to the Visit Seychelles tourism board for hosting me on this trip!

Where is the Seychelles?

Nestled in the heart of the Indian Ocean, Seychelles is a captivating archipelago renowned for its pristine white-sand beaches, crystal-clear waters, and lush tropical landscapes. This paradisiacal destination is dotted with 115 picturesque islands, each boasting its own unique charm and distinct character. From the granite outcrops of Mahe to the coral atolls of Aldabra, Seychelles exudes an air of tranquility and natural beauty that beckons travelers seeking an idyllic retreat. With its diverse marine life, captivating Creole culture, and luxurious resorts, Seychelles offers an unparalleled escape for those in search of sun-kissed bliss and unparalleled natural beauty.

How to get to the seychelles

Being an archipelago of islands in the Indian Ocean, it might not be easy to find flights to get to the Seychelles. Your best bet is to look for flights from Dubai on Emirates Airlines, Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines, or even from Nairobi. Emirates usually gets into Mahe in the morning, while the Ethiopian Airlines flight gets in the afternoon.

How to get around the seychelles

If you’re staying on the main island of Mahe, you definitely need a car to get around. My driver was absolutely wonderful, so if you need an easy airport pick-up or even tour guide, I highly recommend Ocean Blue Seychelles.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Expedia for the best deals on car rentals.

On the other hand, the island of La Digue doesn’t have any cars so the best way to get around is by bicycle. You can rent them easily in front of the ferry terminal.

If you’re trying to travel between the islands, the Cat Cocos ferry that goes to all three islands — check the schedule to plan your itinerary thoroughly! I will share the links in the itinerary below.

Where to stay in the Seychelles

For the most beautiful beaches, you can find great hotels in the south of Mahe. This is also something to consider if you don’t have enough time to visit the famous beaches in La Digue since they also have the stunning granite boulders. The only downside is, it’s quite far from everything so you don’t have very many food options besides the hotel. Check out Villa Chez Batista for a stunning location at an affordable price.

STAY | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in the area.

Seychelles entry requirements

There is no visa required to enter, however, you need to fill out the immigration form on this site prior to departure. Make sure you fill out the correct form, otherwise you will have to pay a $70 fee upon arrival (I made this mistake because the form I filled out didn’t specify it was the departure versus arrival form).

MAHE ITINERARY

La Misére viewpoint

This is a great first stop for the day to get a feel for the beauty of the island at the best overlook in all the island. In the distance you’ll be able to see Eden Island.

Victoria

Welcome to Victoria, the capital city of the stunning Seychelles archipelago. This vibrant port city is nestled on the northeast coast of Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles. With its colorful markets, charming colonial architecture, and bustling waterfront, Victoria offers a delightful blend of Creole culture and a relaxed island vibe. Visitors can savor fresh seafood at local restaurants, explore the vibrant Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market, or take in the majestic views from the nearby Morne Seychellois National Park. I also recommend visiting the Hindu Temple and Clock Tower. Whether strolling along the promenade or immersing in local art and history at museums and galleries, Victoria invites travelers to savor the unique charm of the Seychelles.

Mission Lodge

A little more on the history of the Seychelles with beautiful views of the island. Be sure to also try the traditional Seychellois tea at The Tea House.

Eden Island

By lunchtime drive over to Eden Island to try some incredible octopus coconut curry — a Seychellois specialty!

Domaine Val de Pres

Another historical site to learn more about the Seychelles. You can also head around the back to see how they make perfume from the coco de mer seed — the biggest seed in the world.

La Plaine St. Andre

Takamaka Distillery actually converted this historical site into a rum distillery and it’s a fantastic way to end your day on the island of Mahe. Take a tour and have a drink in their garden afterwards.

PRASLIN ITINERARY

HOW TO GET TO PRASLIN

From Mahe you can easily take the Cat Cocos Ferry, which takes about an hour. You could see both Praslin and La Digue on a full-day trip from Mahe, but La Digue is so stunning I highly recommend staying one night. Praslin, on the other hand, is great to check out just for its UNESCO World Heritage Site.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Viator for other day trips in the Seychelles.

Valleé de Mai nature reserve

This was the main attraction of the island of Praslin, so you can easily do this in the morning before heading to La Digue, or on a day trip from wherever you’re staying.

Hidden in the heart of Praslin Island in the Seychelles, Valleé de Mai Nature Reserve is a captivating haven of natural beauty and wonder. This UNESCO World Heritage site is renowned for its lush, primeval forest that dates back millions of years, and is home to the iconic Coco de Mer palm, famed for producing the largest seed in the plant kingdom. As visitors meander through the enchanting pathways, they are immersed in an otherworldly atmosphere, surrounded by unique flora and fauna found nowhere else on the planet. Valleé de Mai’s serene ambiance and rare biodiversity make it a must-see destination for nature enthusiasts and adventurers seeking to marvel at the wonders of the natural world.

LA DIGUE ITINERARY

HOW TO GET TO LA DIGUE

From Praslin, the Cat Cocos ferry is about fifteen minutes to La Digue, making it perfect to squeeze the two islands together.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Viator for other day trips in the Seychelles.

WHERE TO STAY IN LA DIGUE

For luxury travelers I recommend staying at Le Domaine de L'Orangeraie Resort and Spa.

For mid-range or boutique hotels check out Le Nautique Waterfront Hotel La Digue.

For budget travelers Villa Hortensia is a ten minutes walking from the ferry. Unfortunately you’re not going to find a hostel on this island or anything cheaper, but if budget is a concern I recommend staying in Mahe and doing a day trip to La Digue.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for other hotels in La Digue.

La Digue was my absolute favorite portion of the trip; I would probably spend an extra night or two here if I had the time because the beaches were incredible and straight out of a postcard! You should definitely rent a bicycle and explore the island — you’ll even find wild tortoises roaming around! If you’re doing the Praslin / La Digue day trip from Mahe then the following is what I recommend doing:

L'Union Estate

It’s a few kilometers to get to the heart of the famous Anse Source d'Argent beach so make sure you take a bicycle. You can spot the giant land tortoises in areas around the estate and can feed them leaves. At the beach you can easily rent a glass canoe — I recommend Crystal Water Kayaks, which is directly across from the famous Instagram photo spot with the granite boulders.

The Ultimate Namibia Road Trip

NAMIBIA

Namibia, a land of mesmerizing beauty and wild adventures, enchants visitors with its remarkable landscapes and rich cultural tapestry. Nestled on the southwestern coast of Africa, Namibia is renowned for its vast deserts, towering dunes, and rugged mountain ranges. The breathtaking Etosha National Park offers superb wildlife sightings, while the iconic Skeleton Coast beckons with its haunting landscapes and shipwrecks. From the quaint German-influenced town of Swakopmund to the indigenous Himba communities, the diversity of Namibia's people adds layers of authenticity to the country's allure. Travelers can immerse themselves in thrilling activities such as dune boarding, quad biking, and even tracking desert-adapted elephants. Whether seeking tranquility amidst the stark beauty of the Namib Desert or embarking on an exhilarating safari, Namibia promises an unforgettable journey through a land of limitless wonders.

In April 2023 my friend and I spent a week doing a road trip around the country of Namibia, which was my 141st country. Here is the ultimate itinerary for a road trip around Namibia!

where is Namibia?

Namibia is a country located in southwestern Africa. Bordered by Angola to the north, Zambia and Botswana to the east, and South Africa to the south and east, Namibia boasts a diverse landscape that includes the Namib Desert, one of the oldest deserts in the world. The country's coastline stretches along the South Atlantic Ocean, offering spectacular views and vibrant marine life.

How to get around Namibia

Renting a car was the way to go in Namibia, and I highly recommend looking for something with 4-wheel drive. It’s possible getting around without 4WD but in order to access some sites you need it. For instance, at Sossusvlei National Park you can park and take a shuttle to Deadvlei, but if you want to get there first thing in the morning and beat the crowds you must have 4WD to drive on the sand.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Expedia for the best deals on car rentals.

The Ultimate Namibia Road Trip

Day 1: Windhoek to The Skeleton Coast

We didn’t really spend much time in the capital as we had so much to see in so little time, so we jumped in the rental car and made our way towards the Skeleton Coast. Now, we honestly had no idea where exactly we were going; we knew we wanted to see the dunes where the “sand meets the sea,” but we didn’t know exactly where the dunes were. At first we typed in “skeleton coast” into Google maps and just started driving that way, however, we soon realized that we needed to go to Sandwich Harbour.

After making our way to the coast, we decided to stay the night in the town of Hentiesbaai. Accommodation in this area was a little out of our budget, but we found a cute bed & breakfast Huis Klipdrift Self Catering B&B. They’re apartment-style rooms, which is great for families or if you’re looking to stay next to the beach and barbecue. It’s also a great value and in a perfect location; we walked over to a restaurant called The Fishy Corner, which isn’t the best name but had really fresh seafood!

DAY 2: Sandwich Harbour

Nestled on the southwestern shores of Namibia, lies the enigmatic and ethereal Skeleton Coast, a place where the boundaries between the living and the dead blur. With its desolate and haunting beauty, this stretch of land is a mysterious amalgamation of sandy dunes, treacherous rocky outcrops, and a rugged shoreline that has claimed hundreds of shipwrecks over centuries.

One of our bucket list items for Namibia was visiting the vast dunes next to the ocean; we were wondering if it would be possible to go on our own, but unless you’re really experienced at off-roading it’s not recommended. It’s also highly encouraged to go with a tour group because the tides dictate your safety and your car could get stuck and washed out to sea if not careful.

We went with Mola Mola Marine Dune Experience, and they were fantastic and really knowledgable about the dunes, tides, and how to get in and out of any situation. We had an incredible spread of food for lunch and highly recommend them!

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Viator for other Sandwich Harbour tours.

Later in the day, we went to Walvis Bay to meet with someone who would take us to Pelican Point Lodge, where we would be staying for the next two nights. We drove behind our guide and it was surreal going somewhere so remote, driving past flocks of flamingos and colonies of seals.

DAY 3: PELICAN POINT

Pelican Point in Namibia is a captivating coastal destination that embodies the essence of nature's raw beauty. Situated at the southernmost tip of the picturesque coastal town of Walvis Bay, Pelican Point is known for its breathtaking views and abundant wildlife. As the name suggests, this remarkable peninsula is home to a vast variety of pelicans, which can be seen gracefully gliding over the turquoise waters. The dramatic landscape, adorned with pristine sand dunes and rugged cliffs, creates a stunning backdrop for photography enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. Whether it's witnessing a striking sunset, observing playful seals, or taking in the serene surroundings, Pelican Point offers an unforgettable experience that showcases the marvels of Namibia's unspoiled coastline.

Honestly, Pelican Point was one of the highlights of this trip. I didn’t know what to expect, but it sure blew me away. The lighthouse was built in the early 1900’s and was converted into a luxury lodge, meaning it’s the only place you can stay on this peninsula and is an all-inclusive luxury experience. It is a little on the pricey side, but if your budget allows I guarantee it will be one of the most memorable experiences of your life.

STAY | Check out Booking.com to book your trip to Pelican Point Lodge.

Day 4: PELICAN POINT TO the Namib Desert

In the morning before departure, we had the opportunity to kayak with a colony of seals; it was honestly one of the most incredible wildlife experiences I’ve ever had. This is included if you stay at the Pelican Point Lodge, and one of the many activities they offer.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Viator if you’re interested in kayaking with the seals but looking for another option besides Pelican Point Lodge.

We also wanted the chance to stay in the Namib Desert to be close to Sossusvlei National Park, so we continued our way south and stayed at The Desert Grace by the Gondwana Collection Hotels. This was only an hour from the national park but was a good place to relax for a couple nights.

Day 5: Desert Grace

The Namib Desert, nestled along the southwestern coast of Africa, is a mesmerizing tapestry of boundless beauty and untamed landscapes. Its name, translated as "vast place," aptly captures the essence of this extraordinary desert. Endless stretches of towering orange sand dunes, sculpted by the persistent wind, create an otherworldly panorama that amazes and humbles all who witness it. The desolate terrain is punctuated by pockets of life, where resilient flora and fauna adapt to the harsh conditions. With its ethereal sunsets casting a golden glow over the barren expanse, the Namib Desert is a testament to the raw power and captivating allure of our planet.

Each room at the Desert Grace has its own pool in the back that’s open to the vast desert. It truly feels like you’re out there on your own in the middle of nowhere. They offer different desert tours and trekking, but my friend and I have been doing so much nonstop that we decided to take some time to relax.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in the area.

Day 6: Sossusvlei National Park

Sossusvlei National Park is a mesmerizing natural wonder tucked away in the heart of Namibia. Renowned for its towering red sand dunes, this vast desert landscape blends colors and textures in the most remarkable way. As the sun rises, casting its golden light over the dunes, a breathtaking scene unfolds. The surreal beauty of the contrasting deep blue sky against the vibrant red sand is a sight that leaves visitors in awe. Venturing into the park, one can witness the ethereal Dead Vlei, a dried-up clay pan dotted with ancient skeletal trees, frozen in time. Sossusvlei National Park is not only a testament to the power of nature but also a captivating destination for those seeking an unforgettable experience in the Namib Desert.

Deadvlei has been another bucket list spot I’ve wanted to visit in Namibia. There are two gates that provide entry to the national park; the first one opens at 7:15 AM and the other, which is the second set past the first gate, opens earlier. If you camp in the national park you have access to going to the sites earlier than 7:15 AM, but honestly since we were just trying to go to Deadvlei it didn’t really make much of a difference. As long as you have your own car with 4WD you’ll be able to witness Deadvlei with both shadows and broad daylight. If you don’t have 4WD, there’s an area where you can park and take a shuttle.

In the afternoon we headed back to Windhoek and flew out the next day. It was an incredible trip and I hope this itinerary helps your planning!

Everything you need to know about Overlanding West Africa

WEST AFRICA

If you're seeking an extraordinary adventure that immerses you in vibrant cultures, diverse landscapes, and incredible experiences, look no further than traveling overland through West Africa. With its rich history, bustling markets, breathtaking natural wonders, and warm hospitality, this region offers a journey that is nothing short of remarkable.

As you travel overland, the rhythm of Africa will seep into your soul. Whether you choose to book a guided tour or embrace the freedom of independent travel, the enchanting chaos of the local transport will certainly add an element of excitement.

AN OVERVIEW OF OVERLANDING WEST AFRICA

This was a group trip I was fortunate to join in February - March 2023 during the dry season. The first time the tour agency did this trip was in July the previous year, and it did not bode well for them as it was the rainy season, and the roads between Guinea-Bissau and Guinea are dirt, which became mud. Now, I absolutely loved my trip, but last I heard the tour operator I went with hiked up the prices to over €9000, which is over double what I paid. In this blog post I’m letting you in on how to do West Africa overland on a budget.

DAKAR, SENEGAL

Embarking on a West Africa overland trip allows you to traverse multiple countries, each brimming with their unique charms and surprises. Starting your adventure in Senegal, a land of eclectic art and vibrant music, you'll meander through Dakar's colorful markets before exploring the mesmerizing pink waters of Lake Retba.

I originally started my trip by flying into Dakar and exploring for a couple days. This was my first time in West Africa, and I had heard how difficult this region is so I was a bit apprehensive. Airport taxis were extremely expensive (about $45 USD one-way) so I took local transport, called “sept places,” into Dakar and stayed close to the port ($9 one-way). My goal was to visit Goree Island, which was a beautifully colorful island off the coast of the capital. To visit Goree Island, don’t forget to bring your passport!

Where to stay in dakar

Hôtel Provençal: This is where I stayed in Dakar; it was decent and the people were very nice. My main goal was to get to the ferry without having to take a taxi since I never trust taxi drivers as a solo female traveller.

BOMA Lifestyle Hotel: If I had more time in Dakar I probably would’ve stayed here. Great location, reasonably priced, and a beautiful hotel right on the beach.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in the area.

How to get from Dakar to Banjul?

Welcome to overlanding Africa! Where nothing is ever easy and things are always slow. Here is my step-by-step on how to go from Dakar, Senegal to Banjul, Gambia.

Take a taxi at 8 AM from the Dakar city center area to Beaux Mariechers Gare Routiere De Dakar, which is around 4000 XOF. Tell them you want to go to the “Sept Place” taxi area for The Gambia.

After the taxi driver drops you off, ask around and say that you want to go to Banjul or The Gambia, and they will point you in the right direction. You’ll find it in the back under a metal awning. Don’t let anyone take your bag saying that they’re “helping you” because they’ll demand money.

Once you find the cars lined up, ask for the price. A back seat costs 6000 XOF per person. It’s another 500 XOF to sit up front (I usually recommend sitting up front, otherwise you will be packed like sardines in the back).

When you’re on your way the driver will ask everyone if you want to take the fast route — just say yes. It’s an extra 500 XOF but it saves about two hours, meaning it takes about four to five hours to reach the border. The 500 is collected on the road and used to pay the highway toll booths.

Note: Even though the car says “Banjul,” it only drops you off at the border.

Once you are finished with the border, you can catch a shared taxi outside the Gambia border post to the ferry. It costs 200 Gambian Dalasi per person to the Baffa ferry port in a car with four people. You can use XOF to get all the way from the border to the ferry. Once you reach the ferry, on the north side of the river before you cross to Banjul – you will find an ATM in a green building.

On the ferry to Banjul, you can buy your ticket for 25 Gambian Dalasi (you might have to pay an extra 10 Dalasi for your luggage, which they’ll weigh).

And there you have it! Welcome to Banjul. There’s not much to do, so I personally skipped it. You can take a taxi to the larger city of Serrekunda, which is located on a nice beach. I’ll talk more about the Gambia and logistics next!

THE GAMBIA

My original plan was to go overland from Dakar to Banjul, but unfortunately I had a work meeting pop up and I didn’t want to risk missing the meeting and not be on time to meet the group I was going to overland West Africa with. Flights from Dakar to Banjul were $100 for a quick 15 minutes, so I thought it would save me the stress of a full day’s journey so I could get work done instead.

The next day I met with the group and we started the journey south. The first stop was a fishing village before we crossed the border back into Senegal. We stayed the night near Ziguinchor since we had to pick up visas for Guinea-Bissau the next day.

cap skirring, senegal

Located on the coast of Senegal, Cap Skirring offers a slice of paradise for beach lovers and nature enthusiasts. With its pristine sandy shores and crystal-clear waters, this charming coastal town beckons visitors to immerse themselves in its tranquility. Cap Skirring is exactly what I think of when West Africa crosses my mind with cows roaming the peaceful beaches while the orange African sun sinks below the horizon.

Once we picked up our visas in Ziguinchor, it wasn’t enough time to cross the border into Guinea-Bissau so we stayed the night in Cap Skirring. It was a beautiful, relaxing getaway before the West Africa adventure truly began the next day.

GUINEA-BISSAU

Guinea-Bissau is a captivating country nestled on the west coast of Africa. Known for its rich cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes, it offers a unique and authentic experience to travelers. The bustling capital city of Bissau showcases a harmonious blend of Portuguese colonial architecture and vibrant local markets. As you venture out of the urban areas, you'll be mesmerized by the unspoiled beauty of the Bijagós Archipelago, dotted with lush mangroves and pristine beaches. The warm hospitality of the people, coupled with the rhythmic sounds of traditional music, creates an enchanting atmosphere that captures the essence of this diverse nation. Guinea-Bissau is truly a hidden gem that beckons adventurers to explore its untamed beauty.

guinea

Guinea, a vibrant West African country, is a land teeming with natural beauty and cultural diversity. Bordered by Liberia, Sierra Leone, Guinea-Bissau, Senegal, Mali, and Ivory Coast, Guinea offers a rich tapestry of landscapes ranging from lush forests to rolling hills and palm-fringed beaches. Its bustling capital, Conakry, mesmerizes visitors with its lively markets, colorful street art, and a vibrant music scene that pulses through its veins. Adorned with traditional mud-brick houses and smiling locals, Guinea's rural villages showcase the country's warm hospitality and traditional way of life. With an array of unique wildlife species, such as chimpanzees and hippos, and a fascinating blend of ethnic groups, including the Fulani, Malinke, and Susu, Guinea promises an unforgettable journey off the beaten path waiting to be explored.

Sierra Leone

Sierra Leone, located on the coast of West Africa, is a captivating country that blends breathtaking natural beauty with a rich cultural heritage. Known for its pristine beaches, lush rainforests, and dramatic mountains, this West African gem offers a diverse range of experiences for travelers. From exploring the historic capital city of Freetown with its mix of modern architecture and colonial influences, to embarking on thrilling safaris in the country's national parks, Sierra Leone never fails to leave a lasting impression. But it's the warmth and hospitality of the Sierra Leonean people, coupled with their vibrant traditional music, dance, and cuisine, that truly make this nation shine. Whether you seek adventure, tranquility, or cultural immersion, Sierra Leone is a must-visit destination that will leave you mesmerized and eager to return.

Liberia

Liberia is a land rich in history with a resilient spirit. Known as Africa's oldest republic, Liberia's journey to independence was one filled with struggle and perseverance. Its capital, Monrovia, is named after James Monroe, the fifth President of the United States, due to the strong ties between Liberia and America. With a diverse culture, vibrant music, and fascinating traditions, Liberia offers visitors a true taste of African heritage. From its stunning coastline to the lush rainforests and mesmerizing wildlife, Liberia's natural beauty is awe-inspiring. Despite facing challenges in the past, Liberia continues to rise, moving forward towards a brighter future, embracing its cultural heritage while also striving for progress and development.

Cote d’ivoire

To round off your journey, Cote d'Ivoire awaits with its stunning beaches and lush national parks. Discover the vibrant culture of Abidjan, known for its lively nightlife, and explore the tranquil beauty of Tai National Park, where diverse wildlife awaits.

Everything you need to know to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro

TANZANIA

Mt. Kilimanjaro is a bucket list destination for everyone, and because it’s not a technical hike it’s probably one of the most common mountains to summit. As an avid hiker with very little mountaineering experience, I didn’t know what would be the best route to take or what I would need since there are so many options out there.

DO YOU NEED A GUIDE FOR MT. KILIMANJARO?

The short answer is, yes, you need to be accompanied on the mountain at all times due to national park regulations and permits. Plus, for safety reasons, it’s always best going with someone who knows the route. Your guide and team are also important in a successful summit.

There are so many companies online that offer this tour, so as a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer I referred to a Peace Corps travel facebook group to see what Tanzania Peace Corps Volunteers recommended. PCVs always know how to find the best deals from local companies so that’s always my go-to. Nearly everyone recommended Barafu Tours, so I reached out. Sure enough, they were probably the most economically feasible out of everything I found online.

how did you pick which route for mt. kilimanjaro?

There are seven different routes you can take for Mt. Kilimanjaro:

1. RONGAI: Rongai is the true wilderness experience, but has a low success rate.

2. SHIRA: Shira is nearly identical to Lemosho, but Lemosho is usually recommended over Shira.

3. LEMOSHO: Lemosho is known to have the best views and is one of the longer routes, but it does have a high success rate due to having more time to acclimatize.

4. MACHAME: One of the more popular routes, Machame also has a high success rate.

5. UMBWE: Umbwe is a short, steep route with a low success rate. It’s also known to be the most difficult.

6. MWEKA: Mweka is only used for descents.

7. MARANGU: Marangu is another short route with a low success rate, but there is accommodation available.

I ended up doing the Marangu route because it offered 5-day treks (even though six days is recommended for acclimatization) since I couldn’t be away for that long. I felt that since I had a good amount of hiking experience along with a little bit of mountaineering sprinkled in, that I’d be able to handle it. Plus, I didn’t want to have to carry a lot of gear like a tent etc. It’s nice being able to pull up to little huts and have a toilet, even though it is pretty basic.

Everything you need to know about Eritrea

ERITREA

Eritrea is a small country located in the Horn of Africa, bordered by Ethiopia to the south, Sudan to the west, and the Red Sea to the east. It gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993 after a long and bloody civil war. The country's population is approximately six million people, and it is known for its diverse cultural heritage, ancient ruins, and stunning landscapes. Despite its natural beauty, Eritrea is one of the poorest nations in the world, and its people have suffered from decades of conflict and political instability. Despite these challenges, however, Eritrea has a rich history and culture and is a fascinating destination for travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.

VISA

The visa for Eritrea is notoriously one of the toughest to get. As an American, I sent my passport and all my documents to the embassy in Washington DC, but if you live in Europe, Berlin is probably the best embassy to obtain the visa. These are the following documents I sent to the embassy:

• Physical passport

• Visa application (Note: the photo you have to affix is insanely tiny, I had to go to a photo place and show them the application to make sure we got one that fix exactly within the parameters)

• Flight / Hotel / Itinerary / Employment letter (these aren't necessary according to the website, but I included them so there would be no reason to refuse my application)

• Last month's bank statement (proof of sufficient funds)

• $55 USD money order ($50 for visa, $5 for mail processing)

• Self-addressed express priority mail envelope (express isn't necessary but after waiting on your passport without any sign of life, you're gonna want it!)

I mailed everything off and didn't hear anything until 10 business days after they received it (about 3 weeks, they only work Mondays - Thursdays) when I got a rare call from the embassy to verify how many days I would be visiting Eritrea. They said they would be sending my passport back within the next day but it was sent the following week. In total it took about a month and the visa is valid for 3 months after approval. Note, they don't answer the phone or email if you try contacting them. Yes, it drove me crazy.

ENTRY TO ERITREA

All that was required upon boarding was the visa and vaccination card.

Once the plane lands in Asmara, you're taken to a waiting area to do a rapid test on arrival.

Immigration was friendly and took awhile to input all the info into the system but stamped my passport, no questions asked.

Right after immigration you'll see a currency exchange office on the left. As credit cards are not accepted and there are no ATMs, you should exchange money here. Rates are good anyways but you can always exchange more at your hotel. The office was pitch black when I arrived as it was 11 PM at night so I almost just passed it assuming it was closed. I saw someone tap on the window and the woman was sleeping on the couch inside

The taxi shouldn't cost more than 200 - 300 Nakfas (between $14 - 20 USD) to the main part of the city. The driver was trying to charge me 400 but I insisted on 300 max. If you want a taxi that's guaranteed 200 Nakfas, contact Medhanie in advance (Whatsapp +2917403639)

STAYING CONNECTED

Internet is extremely poor in Eritrea and you cannot access most sites just on wifi. I didn't get a sim card, but I used a VPN called "HA Tunnel Plus," which is what all the locals use. Be sure to download it before your trip; there's tons of different settings and options but the local internet cafe people are wizards and can configure your phone easily if you have trouble.

WHERE TO STAY?

I stayed at the Crystal Hotel and breakfast was included. One of my favorite aspects was it’s right off the main strip and was a great location to walk everywhere. They also had a guide they recommended (Medhanie, who I mentioned above) for $40 for a day, $70 for two days. Just ask the front desk or contact him via whatsapp if you're interested!

What to see in asmara

From a photography standpoint these were my favorite spots around Asmara:

• Cinema Impero

• Fiat Tagliero

• Local markets: personal favorite was the metal-working market. The women also make spices here

• Bowling alley

I wandered around for hours just taking photos of the beautiful architecture and exploring the little shops, seemingly frozen in time.

To visit the tank graveyard you have to get a permit from the Ministry of Tourism office -- bring your passport. To visit other sights outside of Asmara you must secure permits from this office as well, which must be secured more than a day in advance. One of the ladies that works the front desk of Crystal Hotel said she could arrange a driver to Massawa as a 1-day trip for $100 or two days for $200. I found this helpful as there isn't much info online, and the tours that offer it charge a crazy amount of money. You also have to go with a special taxi / driver so when I asked Medhanie if he could take me, he said he could not. I asked other people at the hotel along with locals how to do this, but it wasn't until my second to last day I finally got the right info -- by the time I tried to secure a permit, it was too late. So I hope this helps those that want to visit independently!

One thing to note, most places seem to close for lunch around 11:30 AM and re-open around 3 PM. Nap culture is a big thing.

where to eat in asmara

Here are a few of my favorite spots to eat in Asmara:

• Ghibabo Restaurant for traditional food, all-around favorite restaurant and beautiful atmosphere

• Spaghetti for the best Italian-Eritrean food

• Sweet Asmara Cafe is a cute cafe, mostly for the Italian art deco vibe. I'm big on coffee but that part unfortunately didn't impress, pastries were pretty good

• Cinema Roma had the best coffee -- their macchiatos & cappuccinos were my personal faves. Loved the retro cinema film decor; cinemas haven't played movies since covid, but ask to see the actual theater

Final thoughts

As soon as I started walking around the morning after I arrived, locals would approach me left and right and were incredibly friendly. I was invited to coffee many times, people wanted to accompany me and show me around. Even though I'd offer to pay and then insist, they would refuse.

Locals also invited me to clubs, as this seems like the "thing" to do in the evenings. I was apprehensive as a solo female traveler because I usually don't go out past sunset for safety reasons. Clubs seem to be more like restaurants with a calm, dimly-lit ambiance where you can have food, drinks, and coffee -- not like the typical rowdy dance clubs I usually think of

I usually find that African cities are chaotic, but Asmara was super calm and quiet. People just leave their bicycles on the street unchained because there's no crime, they say. I never got approached aggressively or got unwanted attention like what usually happens as a solo female traveler. Dress is relaxed and I wore my usual jeans and t-shirt. Overall I found it a great place to explore independently and as a solo female traveler, and definitely has become one of my new favorite destinations to date.

Everything you need to know about Orthodox Easter in Lalibela, Ethiopia

ETHIOPIA

Over the past few years I’ve seen the most stunning photos of Ethiopia’s Orthodox in Lalibela, so it’s been on my bucket list to visit, however, it wasn’t easy to find exact information online. I’ve decided to compile everything you need to know about visiting Lalibela, Ethiopia during the Orthodox Easter celebrations so I hope it helps!

Where to Stay

I stayed at the Honey Land Hotel Lalibela, which was centrally located in town and about a twenty minute walk to the main church, St. George. The rooms were clean, hot water, everyone was wonderful, great food at the restaurant, and a great value.

Guide Recommendation

Honestly at first I didn’t even think about getting a guide since I like to explore freely on my own. However, Mule was highly recommended by Honey Land Hotel, reasonably priced, and spoke good English so I thought it might be good to have someone take me around to all the spots I wanted to photograph and have good insight. He was beyond fantastic and I absolutely loved having him — he knew all the best spots to stand for photography during the ceremonies so I highly recommend him as well. I also noticed no tourist wandered around without a guide. Feel free to mention my name if you reach out to him over Whatsapp (+251935438503).

Good Friday

If you’re looking to maximize your photography time, I highly recommend you fly in on Thursday. That way, you can spend time watching and capturing all the ceremonies at the churches on Friday. The flight on Friday come in midday, which also works if you’re short on time and want to still see some of the ceremonies. You’ll still get to see some of the festivities and there’s one ceremony you shouldn’t miss at 6 PM.

Saturday

The festivities on Friday are incredible, but if you’re looking to explore the churches without the crowds this is the day to do it. Saturday is also market day, so the women are at the vegetable / honey market and the men are at the cattle / goat market. I recommend going to the churches in the morning then visiting the markets midday when all the hustle and bustle is going on.

Saturday evening is when the major Easter festivities begin. Chanting starts at 10 PM, but you can get a great spot from above looking down at the crowds if you arrive at 9:30 PM. When they start lighting the candles, take your shots quickly from above once all the candles are lit, then go down below when the priests circle the church so you can get some great portraits of people up-close with their candles before they go out.

Easter sunday

Continuing from the 10 PM chanting, the actual mass begins at midnight and lasts for two hours, and the celebrations conclude at 4 AM. If you’re interested in getting drone shots of the famous St. George church, I highly recommend going at sunrise at 6 AM since everyone will be sleeping or with family at this time. The flight out on Sunday is a little after noon and I think this is the perfect time to fly out. I’m always worried about seeing everything in an allotted time frame so I hope this is useful.

How to Visit the Meroe Pyramids in Sudan

SUDAN

Most people associate pyramids with Egypt, but there’s actually a higher number of pyramids in the country of Sudan! Sudan has 255 pyramids, which are about 2,500 years old (newer than the Egyptian pyramids) and were used as tombs during the Nubian period. For my birthday this year, I visited the Meroe pyramids in the company of good friends in the spirit of adventure. Here’s how you can visit the Meroe pyramids along with my top tips!

Update as of September 2023: Due to the war happening in Sudan, it is not recommended to visit at this time. My dear friends lost their homes, jobs, along with all their possessions in Khartoum and were forced to leave to other countries. Some were not so lucky.

Visa

The Sudanese visa isn’t the easiest to obtain, but there are ways to get it through tour companies or local hotels. My recommendation would be to reach out to Acropole Hotel in Khartoum, as they will sponsor you, and get the letter of invitation set-up in exchange for staying at their hotel. You still have to pay for the visa on arrival when you arrive in Khartoum, but this avoids a visit to an embassy.

What Pyramids can I visit in Sudan?

There are four different sites where you can visit pyramids in Sudan, but in general the Meroe pyramids are the most popular, in the best condition, receive the most funding, and are historically the most important. You can even do a day trip from Khartoum if you’re really short on time.

MEROE PYRAMIDS / BEGRAWIYA: Like I previously mentioned, the most popular pyramids in Sudan, and are about 200 km from Khartoum and takes about 3.5 hours one way.

JEBEL BARKAL PYRAMIDS: Near the town of Karima, about 450 km north of Khartoum and a 6 hour drive one way.

EL KURRU PYRAMIDS: In the same complex of the Jebel Barkal Pyramids.

NURI PYRAMIDS: In the same complex of the Jebel Barkal Pyramids.

How to Get TO THE MEROE PYRAMIDS

As the situation in Sudan is unstable with the protests, it’s important to stay flexible with your schedule. Set aside more time than you think you need; if there’s a surprise protest, bridges that lead in and out of Khartoum will shut down and you won’t be able to leave.

Before leaving Khartoum, make sure you register your passport; you’ll receive an extra sticker in your passport and you need a letter of permission that you may need to show police checkpoints on your way to Meroe pyramids.

My friend and I took a taxi from Khartoum to the pyramids, but if you’d rather have an easy experience I highly recommend booking a stay with Italian Tourism. The price tag is high, but the camp is luxurious and the stay is well-worth it since you’ll be waking up with a view of the pyramids. They can arrange transportation to and from Khartoum as well.

It’s possible to visit the pyramids in a day trip from Khartoum by bus or taxi, but the most magical time to visit is either for sunrise or sunset (sunrise was my personal favorite). The cheapest way to do this trip is to stay at a guesthouse in either Shendi or Atbara; it’s fairly close to the pyramids but it’s a budget-friendly option.

Need to Know

You’ll probably be the only tourists at the pyramids and have the site all to yourself! When you arrive, the entry ticket is 20 SDP (about $7 per person, although things might have changed with the crazy inflation). You can take a camel ride (5 SDP) over to the pyramids since it’s a bit of a walk, but it’s really beautiful.

When to Visit

Sudan experiences extremely high temperatures, so I highly recommend visiting during the winter; I went in January and the temperatures were perfect. It was still hot so I couldn’t imagine visiting at any other time of the year.

If you’re interested in photography, the ideal time to photograph the Meroe pyramids is at sunrise for the best lighting. Sunset is also spectacular but you might experience crowds.

Everything You Need to Know about South Sudan

Welcome to South Sudan

South Sudan is the world’s newest country, but also a war-torn nation. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting this unique African country.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & VISA

Of course the most important things is getting into the country; even though you can apply for the e-visa online you need to have a letter of invitation from a tour agency. We went with Mayom Bul’s company, Metro Safari South Sudan, and they’re known to be one of the best. Please keep in mind that this country has been through a lot and still battles corruption, but this tour agency does its best. It’s typical that things don’t run on time and you might be stuck at police checkpoints for hours.

When you arrive and step off the plane, you’re sprayed down with some sort of harmless chemical and taken to a building to fill out a customs form and show your PCR test. After that you head to the main customs area where you get in line and the officers check everything. Have all your documents printed and ready, and if you have your camera with you, make sure you have your tour agency send you the camera permit if you’re held for questioning.

Once you are picked up by your tour agency, they will take your passport to a separate office for registration. This must be done within three days of arrival, and you cannot leave Juba without this extra documentation in your passport. Remember to show this when you depart and be firm; they will take you into a dark back room and claim you don’t have the proper registration so make sure you stand your ground and show it in your passport so you don’t have to pay an extra bribe (another tourist we bumped into didn’t understand this so they paid a $50 bribe).

The Mundari Tribe

The main reason I wanted to visit South Sudan was to visit this unique tribe; they have a highly sustainable relationship with their cattle, almost in a “circle of life” sense. They devote their lives to their cattle by collecting their dung to burn for fires and keep mosquitoes away, drinking a cup of milk each day for sustenance, and using the urine to bathe. It was an unreal experience to be able to spend three days with this tribe, and one of my favorite travel memories to date.

Top Things to See in Rwanda

How to Get Here: DRC - RWANDA BORDER

When we arrived at the border on the DRC side, they kept insisting we needed to do a new Antigen test even though ours was still valid. Our Congolese guide just waived them off and walked us straight to the immigration counter to get our passports stamped and we didn't have any issues.

After crossing the bridge into Rwanda we paid for a single-entry visa for $50 each, and we were handed off to a Rwandese guide who was also excellent! If you're looking for a guide just for Rwanda I recommend Montana of Rwanda Guide -- Whatsapp: +250788794928

PCR

Because of the New Year's holiday, we got our PCR tests done as soon as we arrived. There was a hospital nearby and we paid $50 each, along with a $5 Antigen test because it's required to enter Nyungwe National Park. You get a code and type it into Rwanda's ministry of health website to get your results.

ACTIVITIES

• Nyungwe National Park: we opted for a waterfall hike, but there's a lot of activities you can choose from! You have to have a park ranger with you the whole time, you can't just explore on your own. The hike went past a tea plantation, and the workers were friendly and loved posing for photos.

• Lake Kivu: we took a traditional boat out to one of the islands for a short 30 minute hike to the top! Lots of bats, birds, and monkeys; since everything was closed for New Year's it was a nice way to spend the day!

CLOSING THOUGHTS

After coming from the DRC, Rwanda was a fantastic way to end this leg of the trip! Everything was so modern, clean, roads were all freshly paved, credit cards were accepted everywhere we went. If you're looking for arrangements/fixer through these three countries, again I definitely recommend Your Burundi Guide to take care of everything! Whatsapp: +25779249670