Everything you need to know about Overlanding West Africa

WEST AFRICA

If you're seeking an extraordinary adventure that immerses you in vibrant cultures, diverse landscapes, and incredible experiences, look no further than traveling overland through West Africa. With its rich history, bustling markets, breathtaking natural wonders, and warm hospitality, this region offers a journey that is nothing short of remarkable.

As you travel overland, the rhythm of Africa will seep into your soul. Whether you choose to book a guided tour or embrace the freedom of independent travel, the enchanting chaos of the local transport will certainly add an element of excitement.

AN OVERVIEW OF OVERLANDING WEST AFRICA

This was a group trip I was fortunate to join in February - March 2023 during the dry season. The first time the tour agency did this trip was in July the previous year, and it did not bode well for them as it was the rainy season, and the roads between Guinea-Bissau and Guinea are dirt, which became mud. Now, I absolutely loved my trip, but last I heard the tour operator I went with hiked up the prices to over €9000, which is over double what I paid. In this blog post I’m letting you in on how to do West Africa overland on a budget.

DAKAR, SENEGAL

Embarking on a West Africa overland trip allows you to traverse multiple countries, each brimming with their unique charms and surprises. Starting your adventure in Senegal, a land of eclectic art and vibrant music, you'll meander through Dakar's colorful markets before exploring the mesmerizing pink waters of Lake Retba.

I originally started my trip by flying into Dakar and exploring for a couple days. This was my first time in West Africa, and I had heard how difficult this region is so I was a bit apprehensive. Airport taxis were extremely expensive (about $45 USD one-way) so I took local transport, called “sept places,” into Dakar and stayed close to the port ($9 one-way). My goal was to visit Goree Island, which was a beautifully colorful island off the coast of the capital. To visit Goree Island, don’t forget to bring your passport!

Where to stay in dakar

Hôtel Provençal: This is where I stayed in Dakar; it was decent and the people were very nice. My main goal was to get to the ferry without having to take a taxi since I never trust taxi drivers as a solo female traveller.

BOMA Lifestyle Hotel: If I had more time in Dakar I probably would’ve stayed here. Great location, reasonably priced, and a beautiful hotel right on the beach.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in the area.

How to get from Dakar to Banjul?

Welcome to overlanding Africa! Where nothing is ever easy and things are always slow. Here is my step-by-step on how to go from Dakar, Senegal to Banjul, Gambia.

Take a taxi at 8 AM from the Dakar city center area to Beaux Mariechers Gare Routiere De Dakar, which is around 4000 XOF. Tell them you want to go to the “Sept Place” taxi area for The Gambia.

After the taxi driver drops you off, ask around and say that you want to go to Banjul or The Gambia, and they will point you in the right direction. You’ll find it in the back under a metal awning. Don’t let anyone take your bag saying that they’re “helping you” because they’ll demand money.

Once you find the cars lined up, ask for the price. A back seat costs 6000 XOF per person. It’s another 500 XOF to sit up front (I usually recommend sitting up front, otherwise you will be packed like sardines in the back).

When you’re on your way the driver will ask everyone if you want to take the fast route — just say yes. It’s an extra 500 XOF but it saves about two hours, meaning it takes about four to five hours to reach the border. The 500 is collected on the road and used to pay the highway toll booths.

Note: Even though the car says “Banjul,” it only drops you off at the border.

Once you are finished with the border, you can catch a shared taxi outside the Gambia border post to the ferry. It costs 200 Gambian Dalasi per person to the Baffa ferry port in a car with four people. You can use XOF to get all the way from the border to the ferry. Once you reach the ferry, on the north side of the river before you cross to Banjul – you will find an ATM in a green building.

On the ferry to Banjul, you can buy your ticket for 25 Gambian Dalasi (you might have to pay an extra 10 Dalasi for your luggage, which they’ll weigh).

And there you have it! Welcome to Banjul. There’s not much to do, so I personally skipped it. You can take a taxi to the larger city of Serrekunda, which is located on a nice beach. I’ll talk more about the Gambia and logistics next!

THE GAMBIA

My original plan was to go overland from Dakar to Banjul, but unfortunately I had a work meeting pop up and I didn’t want to risk missing the meeting and not be on time to meet the group I was going to overland West Africa with. Flights from Dakar to Banjul were $100 for a quick 15 minutes, so I thought it would save me the stress of a full day’s journey so I could get work done instead.

The next day I met with the group and we started the journey south. The first stop was a fishing village before we crossed the border back into Senegal. We stayed the night near Ziguinchor since we had to pick up visas for Guinea-Bissau the next day.

cap skirring, senegal

Located on the coast of Senegal, Cap Skirring offers a slice of paradise for beach lovers and nature enthusiasts. With its pristine sandy shores and crystal-clear waters, this charming coastal town beckons visitors to immerse themselves in its tranquility. Cap Skirring is exactly what I think of when West Africa crosses my mind with cows roaming the peaceful beaches while the orange African sun sinks below the horizon.

Once we picked up our visas in Ziguinchor, it wasn’t enough time to cross the border into Guinea-Bissau so we stayed the night in Cap Skirring. It was a beautiful, relaxing getaway before the West Africa adventure truly began the next day.

GUINEA-BISSAU

Guinea-Bissau is a captivating country nestled on the west coast of Africa. Known for its rich cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes, it offers a unique and authentic experience to travelers. The bustling capital city of Bissau showcases a harmonious blend of Portuguese colonial architecture and vibrant local markets. As you venture out of the urban areas, you'll be mesmerized by the unspoiled beauty of the Bijagós Archipelago, dotted with lush mangroves and pristine beaches. The warm hospitality of the people, coupled with the rhythmic sounds of traditional music, creates an enchanting atmosphere that captures the essence of this diverse nation. Guinea-Bissau is truly a hidden gem that beckons adventurers to explore its untamed beauty.

guinea

Guinea, a vibrant West African country, is a land teeming with natural beauty and cultural diversity. Bordered by Liberia, Sierra Leone, Guinea-Bissau, Senegal, Mali, and Ivory Coast, Guinea offers a rich tapestry of landscapes ranging from lush forests to rolling hills and palm-fringed beaches. Its bustling capital, Conakry, mesmerizes visitors with its lively markets, colorful street art, and a vibrant music scene that pulses through its veins. Adorned with traditional mud-brick houses and smiling locals, Guinea's rural villages showcase the country's warm hospitality and traditional way of life. With an array of unique wildlife species, such as chimpanzees and hippos, and a fascinating blend of ethnic groups, including the Fulani, Malinke, and Susu, Guinea promises an unforgettable journey off the beaten path waiting to be explored.

Sierra Leone

Sierra Leone, located on the coast of West Africa, is a captivating country that blends breathtaking natural beauty with a rich cultural heritage. Known for its pristine beaches, lush rainforests, and dramatic mountains, this West African gem offers a diverse range of experiences for travelers. From exploring the historic capital city of Freetown with its mix of modern architecture and colonial influences, to embarking on thrilling safaris in the country's national parks, Sierra Leone never fails to leave a lasting impression. But it's the warmth and hospitality of the Sierra Leonean people, coupled with their vibrant traditional music, dance, and cuisine, that truly make this nation shine. Whether you seek adventure, tranquility, or cultural immersion, Sierra Leone is a must-visit destination that will leave you mesmerized and eager to return.

Liberia

Liberia is a land rich in history with a resilient spirit. Known as Africa's oldest republic, Liberia's journey to independence was one filled with struggle and perseverance. Its capital, Monrovia, is named after James Monroe, the fifth President of the United States, due to the strong ties between Liberia and America. With a diverse culture, vibrant music, and fascinating traditions, Liberia offers visitors a true taste of African heritage. From its stunning coastline to the lush rainforests and mesmerizing wildlife, Liberia's natural beauty is awe-inspiring. Despite facing challenges in the past, Liberia continues to rise, moving forward towards a brighter future, embracing its cultural heritage while also striving for progress and development.

Cote d’ivoire

To round off your journey, Cote d'Ivoire awaits with its stunning beaches and lush national parks. Discover the vibrant culture of Abidjan, known for its lively nightlife, and explore the tranquil beauty of Tai National Park, where diverse wildlife awaits.