TAJIKISTAN
The Pamir Highway, also known as the Roof of the World, is a mesmerizing stretch of road that winds through the rugged and remote landscapes of Central Asia. Spanning over 1,200 kilometers, this legendary highway offers adventurers an unparalleled journey through Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, crossing towering mountain passes, ancient trade routes, and fascinating villages along the way. Driving along the Pamir Highway is a thrilling experience, with breathtaking vistas of snowy peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and dramatic gorges. It is not just a road, but a gateway to discover the cultural richness and natural beauty of this enchanting region. Whether you are an intrepid traveler seeking rugged terrains or a thrill-seeker wanting to conquer the highest-altitude highway in the world, the Pamir Highway is an unforgettable adventure that will leave you in awe of the wonders of Central Asia.
HOW TO GET TO DUSHANBE
Most fly into the airport, but I actually went overland via Samarkand, Uzbekistan. I took a Yandex (rideshare app) from the city to the border for about $7 USD, and once I was at the border there was a line of shared taxis that you can take five hours all the way to the capital of Dushanbe for $20 USD.
Entry to Tajikistan
At the time of entry, Tajikistan had just removed the visa requirement for Americans, but I had applied for an e-visa online in advance. The one benefit to doing that is you can check the box for the GBAO permit, which is the approval you need in order to do the full Pamir Highway. If you don’t apply for the evisa in advance, your guide for the Pamir Highway should be able to take you to the permit office to get it and it’s about $10 USD.
Where to Stay
Upon arrival in Dushanbe, I stayed at Green House Hostel, which is pretty centrally located in the city. It’s right off the main strip and the private rooms were spacious and the perfect place to relax before and after the Pamir Highway (I’ll get to why I returned to Dushanbe in a bit).
The pamir Highway
The Pamir Highway stretches more than 1200 km between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and is the second highest altitude highway in the world. I found a really cheap guide / driver for $1000, which included guesthouses, meals, and the driver himself. I actually found him on another travelers’ blog, who said really great things about him, but unfortunately I don’t feel like I can recommend him. I’m usually pretty easy-going, but he would FLY down the dirt passes and every time I asked if I could stop for a quick photo, he would groan and begrudgingly pull over.
We were trying to pass through to Khorog, which was the real start of the Pamir Highway, but there were protests going on and the police wouldn’t let us pass. We ran into a lovely Polish couple, who arrived at the checkpoint hours later (probably because they weren’t flying down the road hahaha). Their driver was wonderful and suggested I hitch a ride with them and they would do more “local” things while making our way back to Dushanbe. I was bummed I wouldn’t be able to continue with the original plan of finishing the Pamir Highway in Kyrgyzstan, but I was thrilled to experience local villages that I otherwise wouldn’t get to see. The second guide was wonderful so I’m linking his facebook page; I’ve tried sharing his whatsapp but it seems like he changes his number.
From Dushanbe I continued the journey onto Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan!
