A Comprehensive Guide on Hiking Everest Base Camp Independently

EVEREST BASE CAMP

Mt. Everest, standing tall at 29,032 feet, is the highest peak in the world. Located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and China, this majestic mountain has captivated adventurers and explorers for decades. Scaling its treacherous slopes is a feat that many dream of, but only a few brave souls ever achieve. The summit offers breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment like no other. However, Everest's unforgiving nature has also claimed the lives of many who dared to challenge its mighty presence. A true testament to nature's power and beauty, Mt. Everest remains a beacon for those seeking to push the limits of human achievement.

As an avid hiker and mountaineer, Mt. Everest is one of the natural wonders of this world that has fascinated me. When I was making plans for Nepal, my 169th country, people advised me that the Annapurna circuit is much more beautiful, but I couldn’t shake the thought of Everest Base Camp. Sure, I would need two weeks minimum, but I knew I had to make the pilgrimage to the highest mountain in the world.

Can you hike Everest Base Camp Independently?

Due to the increasing number of accidents and deaths, the Nepalese government introduced a new rule in 2023 that requires all foreign hikers to be accompanied by a local guide while hiking in Nepal. This rule confused me because I assumed that meant I needed a guide, but after looking into it I found that the regional government of the Everest region opted not to follow this new regulation.

I did end up hiring a guide through Iconic Holiday Nepal if you’re interested in having someone experienced show you the way, but I took careful notes throughout the trip so you can save money and hike to Everest Base Camp on your own without a guide.

10 DAY EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK ITINERARY

How long do you need for everest base Camp?

The recommended length of time to do Everest Base Camp is fourteen days. You need time to acclimatize and extra time set aside just in case anything happens with your flights. When I arrived at Ramechhap Airport, it was backed up because the previous three days there were no flights due to weather. My trek was supposed to be twelve days, but with the delays it ended up being ten days. Understand that the recommended length of time to plan is twelve days, but in a perfect case scenario (which is very unlikely) you can do it in ten.

DAY 1: Kathmandu - Ramechhap Airport - Lukla - Manjo

TREK TIME: 5 hours

DIFFICULTY: Easy with a few ups and downs

ELEVATION GAIN: Lukla (9334’ / 2845 m) to Manjo (9390’ / 2862 m) | 56’ / 17 m

DISTANCE: 7.8 miles / 12.63 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Panorama Lodge & Restaurant (200 NPR/night for a twin room)

If you’re lucky, you can fly directly to Lukla from Kathmandu, but if you’re hiking during peak trekking season chances are you’re going to have to make the dreaded four hour drive to Ramechhap Airport. Due to the demand to hike Everest Base Camp, they shift the flights to Lukla out of Ramechhap otherwise regular commercial flights wouldn’t be able to fly out of Kathmandu. This drive is so windy and you’re squished into a packed van.

Getting a flight to Lukla that departs on time is almost like winning the lottery because it’s so rare that it happens. Lukla is considered “the most dangerous airport in the world” due to it’s high altitude and short runway, so weather conditions must be perfect. Sometimes there are even cases where the flight is almost there and the pilots decide to turn around because the weather conditions changed drastically in a short amount of time. Anyways, don’t be surprised if your flight gets delayed and you end up spending a night in Ramechaap.

Most flights that arrive in Lukla happen in the morning, so when you arrive to Lukla use this day to your advantage and get a head start! Because of the mass amounts of people, it’s honestly pretty easy to follow the crowds towards the trail. On the outskirts of Lukla at the beginning of the trailhead, you’ll find the permit office. You need to purchase a TIMS card as it is a record of your trek kept for safety. Individuals pay $20 and get a green card and those in groups pay $10 and get a blue card. The permit costs 3000 NPR + a 13% tax of 3390 NPR (around $30).

Anyways, once you start your hike you’ll descend into a valley and takes about three hours before arriving in Phakding. Have lunch and continue to Manjo for about two hours, where the trail starts to climb. I recommend staying at Panorama Lodge & Restaurant since it’s right after the first permit-check office (you won’t have to wait around if you’re trying to get an early morning start the next day) and you finally enter Sagarmatha National Park.

How much to set aside for food?

The higher your climb, the more expensive food becomes. Up until Dingboche, I would set aside about 1000 NPR per meal (even though you could probably get away with paying 600 NPR, but just to be on the safe side). I also highly recommend buying a Lifestraw water bottle to save money and you don’t have to buy water, you can simply just fill up on tap water or local streams.

Is there wifi and power?

It was quite the shock to learn that everything costs extra, including taking a shower. At each of the tea houses, there is wifi but you have to pay for it. I would recommend getting a sim card or e-sim which will work up until Dingboche. Wifi up until Dingboche costs around 300 NPR on average.

Power is another issue I realized gets more expensive the higher you go. Up until Dingboche you can charge anything you like for on-average 300 NPR. You won’t find outlets in your rooms, but in common areas you’ll see a power strip where the owners can manage everything. Bring a minimum of two power banks, and a mini solar panel that you can hang on your backpack would also be handy.

DAY 2: Manjo - Namche Bazaar

TREK TIME: 3.5 hours

DIFFICULTY: Easy start and then uphill for two hours

ELEVATION GAIN: Manjo (9390’ / 2862 m) to Namche Bazaar (11286’ / 3440 m) | 2436’ / 578 m

DISTANCE: 5 miles / 8 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Comfort Inn (300 NPR/night for a twin room)

After Manjo it’s pretty easy until you see a double suspension bridge, where the trail starts climbing towards Namche Bazaar. You’ll climb for about two hours until you reach the second checkpoint, which is your sign that you’re almost there! Get an early start so you can arrive late morning, have lunch, then do an afternoon acclimatization hike. Most people stay in Namche Bazaar for two nights so they can have a full day set aside for the acclimatization hike, but if you’re strapped for time this will condense your schedule.

Namche Bazaar is a fun town where you can get gear your forgot, maybe some last minute first-aid supplies (blister patches anyone?), cash from the ATMs, or fun souvenirs. It’s the perfect place to relax, so if you do have extra time set aside I recommend even saving this for your way back!

DAY 3: Namche Bazaar - Pangboche

TREK TIME: 7 hours

DIFFICULTY: Easy to moderate. The first part goes downhill, then all uphill after lunch.

ELEVATION GAIN: Namche Bazaar (11286’ / 3440 m) to Pangboche (13110’ / 3996 m) | 1824’ / 556 m

DISTANCE: 11 miles / 18 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Holiday Inn Lodge & Restaurant (500 NPR/night for a twin room)

Most people stay in Tengboche for the night, but remember how I mentioned there were three days worth of flights on the day I was supposed to fly to Lukla? Well, now that I caught up to everyone all the tea houses are extremely packed, there was no availability whatsoever in Tengboche, and I had to continue an extra two hours to Pangboche. I recommend stopping for lunch either in Sanasa (it was also packed when I came through so I had to continue on) or the Lawi Schyasa area. I had lunch at Zambala Restaurant right before the Dudha Koshi Bridge, and it was a great stop before continuing on.

DAY 4: Pangboche - Dingboche

TREK TIME: 4 hours

DIFFICULTY: Easy, but this is where you will begin to feel the altitude.

ELEVATION GAIN: Pangboche (13110’ / 3996 m) to Dingboche (14470’ / 4410 m) | 1360’ / 415 m

DISTANCE: 4 miles / 6.4 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Grand Himalaya (500 NPR/night for twin room)

This is an easy stroll, especially if you stayed in Pangboche instead of Tengboche. Dingboche, however, is where you’ll start to see the prices increase in every aspect. From here, I would start to budget 1300 NPR per meal, 1500 NPR just to charge an external battery (which is why it’s important to make sure you charge everything prior or bring a mini solar panel/extra external batteries)! I also finally decided to shower since it’s the halfway point, and that cost 700 NPR. Bring wet wipes otherwise. You’ll also begin to feel the altitude, so it’s important the best medicine is to just take it slow. Don’t hike too fast. A headache in the front of your head is normal, but if you feel it in the back of your head towards your neck, that’s one of the symptoms of altitude sickness.

DAY 5: Dingboche

Use this day for an acclimatization hike! You’ll see most people doing the Nangkartshang Peak trail, which takes about 3 hours. Do it early in the morning since the winds start to pick up mid-morning, and then you can have the rest of the day to relax. Also note that you won’t have signal starting in Dingboche, and wifi is satellite.

DAY 6: Dingboche - Lobuche

TREK TIME: 4 hours

DIFFICULTY: Moderate to difficult due to the altitude and steep climb before Lobuche

ELEVATION GAIN: Dingboche (14470’ / 4410 m) to Lobuche (16142’ / 4920 m) | 1672’ / 510 m

DISTANCE: 5.2 miles / 8.4 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Peak XV (700 NPR/night for twin room)

Hopefully you used the previous day to acclimatize since today is a lot of elevation gain! The trail gradually climbs for about two hours out of Dingboche until you arrive in Dukla. Dukla is a great spot for lunch before you continue on a steeper climb. After an hour you’ll reach a plateau where you’ll find Memorial Park; shrines dedicated to those who lost their lives climbing the Himalayas. Fill up on extra water here in Lobuche, since there will be no water sources in Gorakshep and water is very expensive up there.

DAY 7: Lobuche - Gorakshep - Everest Base Camp

TREK TIME: 6 hours

DIFFICULTY: Moderate with a steep climb to Gorakship, easy to EBC

ELEVATION GAIN: Lobuche (16142’ / 4920 m) to EBC (17596’ / 5380 m) | 1454’ / 443 m

DISTANCE: 7.3 miles / 11.7 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Snowland Inn (700 NPR/night for twin room)

Today’s the big day to Everest Base Camp! First thing’s first: the trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep. The trail is flat for about the first hour, then is a constant climb for the next two hours until reaching Gorakshep. Once you arrive at your tea house, grab lunch then continue onto Everest Base Camp for the afternoon. It’ll take about an hour to reach EBC, and is a lot of ups and downs. When you arrive you’ll see a giant sign, signifying that you finally made it!

DAY 8: Gorakshep - Kala Patthar - Pangboche

TREK TIME: 7 hours

DIFFICULTY: Difficult to Kala Patthar, moderate but long on the way back

DISTANCE: 15.1 miles / 24.3 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Namaste Lodge & Restaurant (500 NPR/night for twin room)

Get ready to hike Kala Patthar for sunrise at 4:30 AM, the highest point of the trek. It’s a beautiful view of Mount Everest, and you’ll get to see the sun rise behind it. I honestly can’t say if it was worth it or not because I was wrecked after the week, but the scenery was pretty. I didn’t really feel like I missed out on anything though if you’re going back and forth on doing this extra hike or not.

Head back to Gorakshep for breakfast before making your way back down. We had lunch in Dukla, then continued on the path through Pheriche before stopping in Pangboche for the night. Oh, how amazing it was to be back in an area where it wasn’t so expensive for wifi or power! I prefer Namaste Lodge over the previous tea house we stayed at, Holiday Inn, because the signal was better. No need to even buy wifi!

DAY 9: Pangboche - Manjo

TREK TIME: 6.5 hours

DIFFICULTY: Moderate, mostly up and down but just a long day because it’s not a lot of downhill

DISTANCE: 16 miles / 25.8 kilometers

WHERE TO STAY: Panorama Lodge & Restaurant (200 NPR/night for a twin room)

We pushed until Manjo today because my guide said that Namche Bazaar (where most people would stop) wasn’t that far… I would disagree and say it was a decent trek because you don’t have a lot of downhill, unlike the previous day. Going all the way to Manjo for the night absolutely wrecked me, on top of Kala Patthar the previous day.

Again, remember how we were basically competing for rooms every night because it was three days of flights in one so there were 3X the amount of people doing the trek? My guide got word that the day we were supposed to fly out everything was overbooked and weather through the weekend didn’t look good… meaning we could be stuck in Lukla for some time. We made the decision to try and get a flight out the next morning, so staying in Manjo proved to be a good move.

DAY 10: Manjo - Lukla

TREK TIME: 4.5 hours

DIFFICULTY: Moderate, mostly up and down

DISTANCE: 7.8 miles / 12.63 kilometers

We left Manjo at around 5 AM, and the sun began to rise shortly after so it wasn’t dark for too long. We were racing to get back by 10 AM to try and get a flight. As I’m sure you know by now, the flights are very volatile and often don’t run after noon because the weather changes so drastically. Because of all the fumes from the tea houses, I was fighting phlegm and a kennel cough on top of trying to get back. Just as a warning, the tea houses are not well-insulated and you’ll be breathing in all sorts of fumes and chemicals like paint that never quite dried, smoke from the indoor fires, and mold. After coming down from higher altitudes, my lungs loosened up and I got a nasty cough. I noticed most people coming back from EBC also had this. There’s not much you can do about it but just a forewarning.

If you’re racing to get on a flight (just because you have a reservation doesn’t mean anything, it’s literally a free-for-all), go to the The Nest at Lukla Hotel. The owner has a hook-up with the airlines and can get you on a flight. We arrived, had some lemon ginger honey tea (which I recommend for that cough), and the owner got us on the next flight back to Lukla at 11 AM.

Upon arrival in Lukla, I was chatting with the pilot as he packed up his bag and said, “you’re lucky, you got the last flight of the day. The weather is bad now so no more scheduled flights,” And the following days the weather was terrible, as previously mentioned. You really have to be flexible around these flights, or have a guide who’s well-informed.

How to visit Turkmenistan's "Gates of Hell"

TURKMENISTAN

The Gates of Hell in Turkmenistan, also known as the Darvaza gas crater, is a striking natural phenomenon that has captured the imagination of travelers and scientists alike. Located in the Karakum Desert, this expansive, fiery crater has been burning continuously since 1971 when a Soviet drilling rig collapsed, releasing natural gas and creating the mesmerizing spectacle that exists today. Visitors are drawn to the otherworldly beauty of the flaming crater against the stark desert backdrop, making it a unique destination for adventurous explorers and those fascinated by the intersection of nature and human activity.

HOW TO VISIT TURKMENISTAN

DO I NEED A GUIDE TO VISIT TURKMENISTAN?

First thing’s first: at the moment, yes, you need a guide or tour to visit Turkmenistan. Your tour operator will assist you in getting the approval needed to obtain the visa, but this isn’t an easy feat. Turkmenistan is known for rejecting tourists for unknown reasons, but the travelers who got rejected that I know of are all YouTubers. My friend and I ended up going with Saiga Tours, who arranged our whole trip and secured our visas. Just to note, we didn’t go on one of their group trips, it was just us two with a local guide.

How to get a visa for turkmenistan?

Once you get the approval from your tour operator, print out the letter and bring it with you on your flight. The approval takes about a month so make sure you plan your trip far in advance. Upon arrival you will see a visa office where you will present the letter for visa on arrival and pay $90 USD.

HOW TO GET TO TURKMENISTAN

To get to Turkmenistan, you can fly into the capital of Ashgabat. The most popular routes are from Istanbul on Turkish Airlines, Dubai, or Uzbekistan (although I recommend if you’re doing a “stans” hopping tour, you should just go to Uzbekistan overland from Turkmenistan).

COMMUNICATION

Unfortunately you cannot get a sim card in Turkmenistan and the internet is heavily censored so it is highly unlikely that you will be able to communicate with the outside world while you’re visiting. VPNs also don’t work since they’re constantly being banned (I tried downloading five different ones that locals recommended). For some reason I was able to use my email, but other than that all social media, whatsapp, etc did not work.

HOW TO GET TO THE GATES OF HELL

If you’re going with a tour operator, they will take care of all the logistics, but there are a few different ways:

Fly to Dashoguz

This is Turkmenistan’s northernmost city, and close to the UNESCO World Heritage Site Köneürgench (or Kunya-Urgench), which is definitely a must-see. The Gates of Hell is somewhat halfway between Dashoguz and Ashgabat, so it’s recommended to take a flight to save some time.

Overnight Train

I actually had no idea prior to the trip that there was an overnight train that connected the country, but this would have been my go-to option rather than having to wake up early and take a flight. I would have loved to experience a Soviet-era train while waking up arriving in Dashoguz.

DRIVING TO THE GATES OF HELL

Chances are, you’re probably going to do one of the above two options but you will have to drive either there or on the way back since the Gates to Hell are halfway in between Dashoguz and Ashgabat. It’s about eight hours of driving total.

Traveling to Afghanistan as a Tourist

A F G H A N I S T AN

In June 2022 I traveled to Afghanistan as a tourist, about nine months after the TB* takeover. Despite everything that’s happening there right now, it’s a beautiful country to visit full of incredible people, stunning landscapes, and rich history. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Afghanistan.

Note: I understand that visiting Afghanistan is a sensitive topic, and things are always changing. This post is based off my experiences traveling to this country as a tourist in June 2022 so please be mindful and respectful.

*Acronym used so my blog doesn’t get blacklisted on Google rankings

How does it feel to be a woman traveling in afghanistan?

Prior to entering, I was a bit worried since I only had a headscarf versus a niqab (full-face covering except the eyes) or burka (one-piece veil). It was much more relaxed than I was expecting; I saw many women also only wearing the hijab (headscarf) with full-faced makeup, and very few wore the burka.

As much as you’re a woman from the outside and they say “women have rights,” it’s different from what you’re used to — a different culture, respectfully so. You’re still seen as invisible. You have to remember not to let too much ankle show, don’t shake hands or take photos with men you don’t know, sit in the same row as another man in the car (even if you’re friends), or just accept that it’s “men’s day” and you can’t enter whatever museum.

Is Afghanistan Safe?

There’s two layers of safety to address: as a tourist and as a woman. Being a tourist, I don’t think I had a moment where I felt “unsafe,” but you see — most of the roads were previously hijacked by the TB that made them unsafe.

On the other hand, as a woman, you’re only as safe as the men around you allow you to be; whether it’s protecting you (even just by their presence unknowingly) or not being taken advantage of / hassled / hurt in any way by strangers. My experience would have been completely different had I traveled independently or with anyone else, so I feel incredibly grateful and lucky to be surrounded by a great group of people who looked after each other and made me feel safe, and never once did I feel like I was in danger.

Do I Need a Guide for Afghanistan?

First of all, as a tourist I highly recommend going through an agency to assist with your trip and help you through the visa process. I had a female friend who went to Afghanistan independently and unfortunately had quite a traumatic experience. These were her words:

“I would personally say not to [travel to Afghanistan solo]. I’m a fairly experienced solo traveler — Iraq, Eritrea, Darfur without a guide. But no matter how experienced you are, as a woman, a lot of the TB don’t even see you as a person. You can’t speak for yourself. Do not even attempt it unless you are familiar with Sharia and strict interpretations of Islam. If someone wants to experience Afghanistan and leave with a good impression, as a woman, and having compared my experience to Anna’s, 100% hire a guide that knows how to deal with checkpoints. At minimum you probably need to at least travel with a man; but even with that, I was sometimes told I couldn’t leave my hotel room,”

“The country isn’t ready for solo female travel. They’re barely ready for tourists. Even very experienced travelers I know have been held. Having a guide puts that layer between you and the TB, and unless you really know what you’re doing and are fluent not only in Dari but Pashto. We could communicate in Farsi / Dari but in Kandahar that didn’t even matter because they only spoke Pashto and most TB only speak Pashto,”

That being said, I had a fantastic time in Afghanistan and I attribute that to the group of people and tour operator I went with. I recommend checking out Crazy Puffin Adventures — I actually lead tours for them and they always have great groups of people and itineraries.

How to get a visa for Afghanistan?

If you go through Wander Expeditions, they’ll walk you through the process and give you the letter of invitation you’ll need to bring to the embassy. If you can, Afghanistan is perfect to pair with Pakistan beforehand — I have a great itinerary here. But the reason I recommend Pakistan beforehand is:

• You can get the Afghanistan visa in Peshawar for $80

• Flights from Islamabad to Kabul are much cheaper. I paid $94 via Kam Air

On the other hand, getting the Afghanistan visa in Dubai is fast and reliable. I ended up getting my visa in Dubai, but I didn’t know at the time it would cost $500 (my jaw literally dropped to the floor when I paid because I was originally told it was $300). I spent a total of two hours at the embassy, which included the interview and time to put the sticker in my passport.

Kabul

Most people arrived in the early morning and had the first day to explore Kabul, but since my friend and I were coming from Pakistan our flight didn’t get in til the afternoon. We made it in time for sunset at Sakhi Shrine. We also had the opportunity to explore the bird market on our last day before departing Afghanistan, which was another favorite on the trip.

Herat

We flew to Herat from Kabul early the next morning, and spent the evening at the Friday Mosque. We also went to the Citadel of Herat, which dates back to 330 BC when Alexander the Great and his army arrived, and over the past 2000 years its been used as a headquarters for many empires.

Bamyan

Bamyan was definitely the highlight of the trip for me! The Buddhas of Bamyan were carved into the side of a cliff in the 6th century. Sadly they were destroyed in 2001, but it’s also an important reminder to protect history and cultural heritage. Band-e Amir National Park was also incredibly stunning and a must-see.

8 Day Itinerary in Pakistan

PAKISTAN

The soft glow of morning light streamed into the car and I was gently woken up by the fresh breeze of mountain air blowing through the cracks of the window. Dust flickered in the sun rays, the musty smell of the rickety car tickled my nose, and the muted Pakistani sounds on the radio fluttered past my ears. It was one of those fleeting moments -- nothing of significance, yet one that filled my heart of gratitude.

Pakistan is one of those places full of natural beauty, culture, and the hearts of so many wonderful people that will leave you coming back for more. I’m excited to share an eight day itinerary through the northern mountains of Pakistan!

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

The most important thing is the visa; you can apply for an e-visa through their official website. It’s quite a lengthy process but everything is fairly straight-forward. I had to provide a hotel booking but they emailed me saying it wasn’t enough and that I needed an actual letter of invitation. I recommend using Caravanistan to get the letter of invitation and they’ll provide everything you need very quickly. I was able to get my e-visa back fast after submitting everything!

Getting Around & Guides/Drivers

Of course public transportation is an option, but it takes a long time. Unless you have the time and patience, I highly recommend looking into getting a driver. Yes, there are tours out there but they will cost a lot of money. Fortunately I highly recommend a good friend of mine (I call him Captain Khan) and he’ll take care of everything — take you to all the best photo spots and guest houses. He’s really one of the best drivers and guides I’ve ever had and I recommend him to everybody who asks me about Pakistan.

You can contact him at Whatsapp at +923078824566 or find him on Instagram here!

money & atm’s

Going to these countries it’s important to bring emergency cash with you, and cash to exchange just in case. Most ATM’s don’t work with international cards and we only found one that worked in Islamabad: Standard Chartered.

Staying connected: Sim Cards

One of my first orders of business when I arrive in a country is finding a sim card to stay connected. In general, Zong has the best 4G coverage in Pakistan but if you’re going to be sticking to the north, find a Telenor sim.

When to Visit

If you’re planning on visiting the north (pretty much all of this itinerary), the best time of year to visit is late spring to early autumn because otherwise the mountains are inaccessible. Winter is a good time to visit the south to avoid the crazy heat.

What to Wear

Pakistan is a conservative country, so it helps to respect local customs and traditions. I find it fun to dress in local clothing so you can find little shops to dress you up in shalwar kameez.

Anyways, now that we got the important details out of the way let’s get back to the Pakistan itinerary!

Day 1: Islamabad

I was surprised upon arrival I was expecting absolute chaos, but Islamabad is actually quite nice and relaxed! Of course, when you visit monuments and such you’ll be bombarded by people asking to take your photo. My favorite spot for sunset was the Pakistan Monument and watching the evening glow and prayer at Shah Faisal Masjid. Photography tip, you can get a perfect sunburst poking through the monument at sunset!

Day 2: Islamabad to batakundi

Today you begin making your way north! You’ll see a lot of beautiful viewpoints, but not too many points of interest — it’s all about getting up into the mountains.

Day 3: Batakundi to fairy meadows

If you’re going with Captain Khan, he’ll drop you off at the trailhead where all the classic Jeeps line up. It’s really such an experience getting to go up one of the most dangerous roads in the world! Once you arrive at the next trailhead, you’ll hike the rest of the way to Fairy Meadows. There’s a lot of guesthouses, so make sure you remember the name of where you’re staying because you won’t have service to look it up later. A guard will escort you up the mountain and be your guide.

Day 4: Fairy Meadows

Spend the day hiking around, soaking in the views of Nanga Parbat — the 9th largest mountain in the world. Catching the reflection of the pond at sunrise was my favorite, but I spent most of the time relaxing admiring the views. Remember to bring warm clothes — it’s still really cold and there’s no heat in the cabins. The electricity is also quite unstable and I managed to blow up one of the outlets… hahaha whoops.

Day 5: Fairy meadows to karimabad

We hiked down early in the morning back to the trailhead where Captain Khan was waiting and drove north to Karimabad — home of the stunning Hunza Valley and Eagle’s Nest. On the way there’s lots of opportunities to stop and try yak, even a delicious yak burger!

Day 6: Karimabad to the China Border

This is a beautiful drive and quirky stop if you’re into interesting geographical borders. Plus the highest ATM in the world in located here (not that it works but it’s still fun to check out)!

Day 7: Hunza Valley

A lot of beauty to see and take in. You can check out the glacier at the base of K2 and if you’re into gemstones this is a great place to get a little keepsake! Unfortunately it was a cloudy day so we couldn’t see K2 itself, but still a fun stop. Hussaini Hanging Bridge was probably one of my highlights in the Hunza Valley as well, and the views were stunning! It’s deemed as the “most dangerous bridge in the world,” but I think there’s another hanging bridge nearby that truly takes that name. Eagle’s Nest is the best way to spend sunset in the Hunza Valley so be sure to check it out!

Day 8: attabad lake

We passed Attabad Lake on the way earlier, but now that we were making our way back towards Gilgit we wanted to stop during the daytime to photograph the beautiful colors of turquoise. Captain Khan knows all the best photo spots so I’ll just let you book a tour with him and he can show you where I took this photo :)

We would’ve driven with Captain Khan back to Islamabad but we were tight on time as we were trying to make a flight to Kabul the next morning. I wouldn’t rely on flights from Gilgit to Islamabad because I looked up the percentage in which they get cancelled and it’s 90%. Ours ended up getting cancelled and we had to pay a taxi driver a hefty price to get back — so it’s best to be on the safe side and take the 12 hours to drive.

Anyways, I hope this guide helps anyone out there trying to visit Pakistan! Again, if you’re looking for a fantastic guide / driver feel free to reach out to Captain Khan on Whatsapp at +923078824566 or find him on Instagram here!

How to get to Big Almaty Lake, Kazakhstan

K A Z A K H S T A N

Because of all the changes in our schedule around the “stans,” we didn’t have too much time to spend in Kazakhstan. One thing I wanted to do was visit Big Almaty Lake, which actually isn’t too far from the capital.

When to Go

Depending on the time of year, the lake will radiate different shades of blue. If you go in May (that’s when I went), you’ll see more of milky blue, but if you go in September you’ll see more of an iridescent turquoise.

How to get there

If you don’t have a rental car, it’s actually quite easy to get there from the capital with a taxi or rideshare app like Yandex.

1. Type in “Big Almaty Lake” in the "where-to” box

2. Tap the “+” symbol

3. Add your next destination after Big Almaty Lake (or where you want to be dropped back off in Almaty)

4. Select class of car

5. Click order and wait for the taxi / Yandex to arrive

At the time I went (May 2022), the total price was 11,500 KZT or $26 USD total. It took 3 hours total: one hour there, one hour for the taxi to wait while we ran around and explored, and one hour back to Almaty. $26 for three hours isn’t bad!

Best Things to do in Kyrgyzstan

Continuing my “stans” overland adventure, I made my way to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. The original plan was to do the Pamir Highway from Dushanbe, Tajikistan and cross the border to Kyrgyzstan, but because of the protests going on it didn’t work out. We had to turn around and book last second flights to Bishkek, but there weren’t any direct flights; the only one we could find had a full day layover in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Fortunately it was only a three hour drive from Almaty to Bishkek, so we got a taxi for $70 and crossed the border to Kyrgyzstan.

Everything was extremely last minute so we didn’t book a hotel in advance; we figured we could find something once we arrived — wrong. We didn’t have cell phone service to look up anything so we relied on our taxi driver, and he seemed to take us to every hotel that was way outside of our budget. We finally gave up and decided to take turns sleeping on a public bench until our tour at 8 AM started. Anyways, here were my favorite things to do in Kyrgyzstan!

Golden Eagle Hunters

By far one of the best experiences in Kyrgyzstan was seeing this ancient hunting tradition! You need to book a tour in advance; I highly recommend Asia Tours Kyrgyzstan. They were fantastic and took care of all the logistics.

Hot Springs

Check out the trek to Altyn Arashan — the best hot springs are about a ten minute walk from the manmade pools.

Stay in a yurt

Staying in a yurt is a great way to experience nomadic culture! You can find some beautiful yurts alongside Lake Issykkul. Again, if you go with Asia Tours Kyrgyzstan they can set everything up.

Burana Tower

Check out the beautiful architecture from the old Silk Road era! It’s on the way to Lake Issykkul if you’re heading in that direction.

Fairytale Canyon

The landscapes are incredibly diverse across Kyrgyzstan, and this canyon in particular almost reminds me of the southwest in the USA!

Everything you need to know about the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan

TAJIKISTAN

The Pamir Highway, also known as the Roof of the World, is a mesmerizing stretch of road that winds through the rugged and remote landscapes of Central Asia. Spanning over 1,200 kilometers, this legendary highway offers adventurers an unparalleled journey through Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, crossing towering mountain passes, ancient trade routes, and fascinating villages along the way. Driving along the Pamir Highway is a thrilling experience, with breathtaking vistas of snowy peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and dramatic gorges. It is not just a road, but a gateway to discover the cultural richness and natural beauty of this enchanting region. Whether you are an intrepid traveler seeking rugged terrains or a thrill-seeker wanting to conquer the highest-altitude highway in the world, the Pamir Highway is an unforgettable adventure that will leave you in awe of the wonders of Central Asia.

HOW TO GET TO DUSHANBE

Most fly into the airport, but I actually went overland via Samarkand, Uzbekistan. I took a Yandex (rideshare app) from the city to the border for about $7 USD, and once I was at the border there was a line of shared taxis that you can take five hours all the way to the capital of Dushanbe for $20 USD.

Entry to Tajikistan

At the time of entry, Tajikistan had just removed the visa requirement for Americans, but I had applied for an e-visa online in advance. The one benefit to doing that is you can check the box for the GBAO permit, which is the approval you need in order to do the full Pamir Highway. If you don’t apply for the evisa in advance, your guide for the Pamir Highway should be able to take you to the permit office to get it and it’s about $10 USD.

Where to Stay

Upon arrival in Dushanbe, I stayed at Green House Hostel, which is pretty centrally located in the city. It’s right off the main strip and the private rooms were spacious and the perfect place to relax before and after the Pamir Highway (I’ll get to why I returned to Dushanbe in a bit).

The pamir Highway

The Pamir Highway stretches more than 1200 km between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and is the second highest altitude highway in the world. I found a really cheap guide / driver for $1000, which included guesthouses, meals, and the driver himself. I actually found him on another travelers’ blog, who said really great things about him, but unfortunately I don’t feel like I can recommend him. I’m usually pretty easy-going, but he would FLY down the dirt passes and every time I asked if I could stop for a quick photo, he would groan and begrudgingly pull over.

We were trying to pass through to Khorog, which was the real start of the Pamir Highway, but there were protests going on and the police wouldn’t let us pass. We ran into a lovely Polish couple, who arrived at the checkpoint hours later (probably because they weren’t flying down the road hahaha). Their driver was wonderful and suggested I hitch a ride with them and they would do more “local” things while making our way back to Dushanbe. I was bummed I wouldn’t be able to continue with the original plan of finishing the Pamir Highway in Kyrgyzstan, but I was thrilled to experience local villages that I otherwise wouldn’t get to see. The second guide was wonderful so I’m linking his facebook page; I’ve tried sharing his whatsapp but it seems like he changes his number.

From Dushanbe I continued the journey onto Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan!

Best Uzbekistan Itinerary

Uzbekistan has become one of my favorite countries — the history, architecture, the people, and the food are all so amazing. Here are my top tips and best itinerary for Uzbekistan!

Tashkent

I wouldn’t say this is a “must see” city, but if you have time check out the Hazrati Imam complex, Chorsu bazaar, and wander the uniquely different metro stations!

Tip: Train is the most popular and easiest way of getting around the country. I highly recommend booking your tickets in advance online or going to the train station immediately upon arrival. I would have loved to explore Khiva, but unfortunately tickets were all sold out!

Samarkand

So much to see, so little time! The number one attraction is the Registan but make sure you arrive right when they open in the morning to avoid crowds. The light show at night is also unique. Shah-i-Zinda was another favorite!

Bukhara

Bukhara is an ancient city that’s an absolute must-see. My personal favorite spots were the Po-i-Kalyan complex, Chor Minor, and Ulugh Beg Madrasah!

Khiva

Like I mentioned previously, unfortunately I didn’t have time to visit Khiva due to the train tickets being sold out. I would have loved to visit Kalta Minor Minaret had I visited!