A F G H A N I S T AN
In June 2022 I traveled to Afghanistan as a tourist, about nine months after the TB* takeover. Despite everything that’s happening there right now, it’s a beautiful country to visit full of incredible people, stunning landscapes, and rich history. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Afghanistan.
Note: I understand that visiting Afghanistan is a sensitive topic, and things are always changing. This post is based off my experiences traveling to this country as a tourist in June 2022 so please be mindful and respectful.
*Acronym used so my blog doesn’t get blacklisted on Google rankings
How does it feel to be a woman traveling in afghanistan?
Prior to entering, I was a bit worried since I only had a headscarf versus a niqab (full-face covering except the eyes) or burka (one-piece veil). It was much more relaxed than I was expecting; I saw many women also only wearing the hijab (headscarf) with full-faced makeup, and very few wore the burka.
As much as you’re a woman from the outside and they say “women have rights,” it’s different from what you’re used to — a different culture, respectfully so. You’re still seen as invisible. You have to remember not to let too much ankle show, don’t shake hands or take photos with men you don’t know, sit in the same row as another man in the car (even if you’re friends), or just accept that it’s “men’s day” and you can’t enter whatever museum.
Is Afghanistan Safe?
There’s two layers of safety to address: as a tourist and as a woman. Being a tourist, I don’t think I had a moment where I felt “unsafe,” but you see — most of the roads were previously hijacked by the TB that made them unsafe.
On the other hand, as a woman, you’re only as safe as the men around you allow you to be; whether it’s protecting you (even just by their presence unknowingly) or not being taken advantage of / hassled / hurt in any way by strangers. My experience would have been completely different had I traveled independently or with anyone else, so I feel incredibly grateful and lucky to be surrounded by a great group of people who looked after each other and made me feel safe, and never once did I feel like I was in danger.
Do I Need a Guide for Afghanistan?
First of all, as a tourist I highly recommend going through an agency to assist with your trip and help you through the visa process. I had a female friend who went to Afghanistan independently and unfortunately had quite a traumatic experience. These were her words:
“I would personally say not to [travel to Afghanistan solo]. I’m a fairly experienced solo traveler — Iraq, Eritrea, Darfur without a guide. But no matter how experienced you are, as a woman, a lot of the TB don’t even see you as a person. You can’t speak for yourself. Do not even attempt it unless you are familiar with Sharia and strict interpretations of Islam. If someone wants to experience Afghanistan and leave with a good impression, as a woman, and having compared my experience to Anna’s, 100% hire a guide that knows how to deal with checkpoints. At minimum you probably need to at least travel with a man; but even with that, I was sometimes told I couldn’t leave my hotel room,”
“The country isn’t ready for solo female travel. They’re barely ready for tourists. Even very experienced travelers I know have been held. Having a guide puts that layer between you and the TB, and unless you really know what you’re doing and are fluent not only in Dari but Pashto. We could communicate in Farsi / Dari but in Kandahar that didn’t even matter because they only spoke Pashto and most TB only speak Pashto,”
That being said, I had a fantastic time in Afghanistan and I attribute that to the group of people and tour operator I went with — Wander Expeditions. I’ve been on four expeditions so far with them and they always select great groups of people and have awesome itineraries. Feel free to mention my name if you apply for a trip :)
How to get a visa for Afghanistan?
If you go through Wander Expeditions, they’ll walk you through the process and give you the letter of invitation you’ll need to bring to the embassy. If you can, Afghanistan is perfect to pair with Pakistan beforehand — I have a great itinerary here. But the reason I recommend Pakistan beforehand is:
You can get the Afghanistan visa in Peshawar for $80
Flights from Islamabad to Kabul are much cheaper. I paid $94 via Kam Air
On the other hand, getting the Afghanistan visa in Dubai is fast and reliable. I ended up getting my visa in Dubai, but I didn’t know at the time it would cost $500 (my jaw literally dropped to the floor when I paid because I was originally told it was $300). I spent a total of two hours at the embassy, which included the interview and time to put the sticker in my passport.
Kabul
Most people arrived in the early morning and had the first day to explore Kabul, but since my friend and I were coming from Pakistan our flight didn’t get in til the afternoon. We made it in time for sunset at Sakhi Shrine. We also had the opportunity to explore the bird market on our last day before departing Afghanistan, which was another favorite on the trip.
Herat
We flew to Herat from Kabul early the next morning, and spent the evening at the Friday Mosque. We also went to the Citadel of Herat, which dates back to 330 BC when Alexander the Great and his army arrived, and over the past 2000 years its been used as a headquarters for many empires.
Bamyan
Bamyan was definitely the highlight of the trip for me! The Buddhas of Bamyan were carved into the side of a cliff in the 6th century. Sadly they were destroyed in 2001, but it’s also an important reminder to protect history and cultural heritage. Band-e Amir National Park was also incredibly stunning and a must-see.
