Everything you need to know about Orthodox Easter in Lalibela, Ethiopia

ETHIOPIA

Over the past few years I’ve seen the most stunning photos of Ethiopia’s Orthodox in Lalibela, so it’s been on my bucket list to visit, however, it wasn’t easy to find exact information online. I’ve decided to compile everything you need to know about visiting Lalibela, Ethiopia during the Orthodox Easter celebrations so I hope it helps!

Where to Stay

I stayed at the Honey Land Hotel Lalibela, which was centrally located in town and about a twenty minute walk to the main church, St. George. The rooms were clean, hot water, everyone was wonderful, great food at the restaurant, and a great value.

Guide Recommendation

Honestly at first I didn’t even think about getting a guide since I like to explore freely on my own. However, Mule was highly recommended by Honey Land Hotel, reasonably priced, and spoke good English so I thought it might be good to have someone take me around to all the spots I wanted to photograph and have good insight. He was beyond fantastic and I absolutely loved having him — he knew all the best spots to stand for photography during the ceremonies so I highly recommend him as well. I also noticed no tourist wandered around without a guide. Feel free to mention my name if you reach out to him over Whatsapp (+251935438503).

Good Friday

If you’re looking to maximize your photography time, I highly recommend you fly in on Thursday. That way, you can spend time watching and capturing all the ceremonies at the churches on Friday. The flight on Friday come in midday, which also works if you’re short on time and want to still see some of the ceremonies. You’ll still get to see some of the festivities and there’s one ceremony you shouldn’t miss at 6 PM.

Saturday

The festivities on Friday are incredible, but if you’re looking to explore the churches without the crowds this is the day to do it. Saturday is also market day, so the women are at the vegetable / honey market and the men are at the cattle / goat market. I recommend going to the churches in the morning then visiting the markets midday when all the hustle and bustle is going on.

Saturday evening is when the major Easter festivities begin. Chanting starts at 10 PM, but you can get a great spot from above looking down at the crowds if you arrive at 9:30 PM. When they start lighting the candles, take your shots quickly from above once all the candles are lit, then go down below when the priests circle the church so you can get some great portraits of people up-close with their candles before they go out.

Easter sunday

Continuing from the 10 PM chanting, the actual mass begins at midnight and lasts for two hours, and the celebrations conclude at 4 AM. If you’re interested in getting drone shots of the famous St. George church, I highly recommend going at sunrise at 6 AM since everyone will be sleeping or with family at this time. The flight out on Sunday is a little after noon and I think this is the perfect time to fly out. I’m always worried about seeing everything in an allotted time frame so I hope this is useful.

The Best 1-Week Itinerary for Iran

If you’re like me and want to go everywhere but have limited time, sometimes you just have to see the best the country has to offer. Iran has so much to see but it’s hard to know where to even start! Everything is so picturesque and you can spend months exploring. Here is the best one-week itinerary for Iran!

how to get around iran

Getting around Iran is really easy with overnight buses! If you’re only planning on doing the main cities of Iran like in this itinerary — Tehran, Isfahan, and Shiraz — I recommend taking a flight to Shiraz and taking buses or trains back to save time.

Currency: Rial vs Toman

Even though the Rial is the official currency, Toman is considered to be a superunit (1 Toman = 10 Rial). It can be a little confusing at first since they don’t explicitly state which they’re using so be sure to ask!

What is Ta’arof?

This is a hospitality custom where someone will refuse payment for a service out of politeness, but you should insist despite refusals that you want to pay. After two or three times if they don’t accept your money, then you’ve gotten to experience the amazing Iranian hospitality!

What to wear as a woman in iran

Women must cover their head, arms, and legs — this includes a hijab / headscarf, a loose long-length shirt, and long pants / skirt or dress. Leggings and jeans are okay as long as your top is long and covers your bottom, and your pants go down to your ankles. Carry your headscarf on the plane and put it on before landing in Iran.

Tehran

• Azadi Tower (best at sunrise)

• Golestan Palace

• Imamzadeh Saleh

Shiraz

• Pink Mosque: Arrive right when the doors open to avoid crowds and to photograph the best stained glass reflections

• Shah Cheragh Shrine

• Sayyed Alaeddin Hossein Shrine

• Vakil Mosque

Isfahan

• Shah Mosque

• Sheikh Lotfolloah Mosque

How to get to Big Almaty Lake, Kazakhstan

K A Z A K H S T A N

Because of all the changes in our schedule around the “stans,” we didn’t have too much time to spend in Kazakhstan. One thing I wanted to do was visit Big Almaty Lake, which actually isn’t too far from the capital.

When to Go

Depending on the time of year, the lake will radiate different shades of blue. If you go in May (that’s when I went), you’ll see more of milky blue, but if you go in September you’ll see more of an iridescent turquoise.

How to get there

If you don’t have a rental car, it’s actually quite easy to get there from the capital with a taxi or rideshare app like Yandex.

1. Type in “Big Almaty Lake” in the "where-to” box

2. Tap the “+” symbol

3. Add your next destination after Big Almaty Lake (or where you want to be dropped back off in Almaty)

4. Select class of car

5. Click order and wait for the taxi / Yandex to arrive

At the time I went (May 2022), the total price was 11,500 KZT or $26 USD total. It took 3 hours total: one hour there, one hour for the taxi to wait while we ran around and explored, and one hour back to Almaty. $26 for three hours isn’t bad!

Best Things to do in Kyrgyzstan

Continuing my “stans” overland adventure, I made my way to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. The original plan was to do the Pamir Highway from Dushanbe, Tajikistan and cross the border to Kyrgyzstan, but because of the protests going on it didn’t work out. We had to turn around and book last second flights to Bishkek, but there weren’t any direct flights; the only one we could find had a full day layover in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Fortunately it was only a three hour drive from Almaty to Bishkek, so we got a taxi for $70 and crossed the border to Kyrgyzstan.

Everything was extremely last minute so we didn’t book a hotel in advance; we figured we could find something once we arrived — wrong. We didn’t have cell phone service to look up anything so we relied on our taxi driver, and he seemed to take us to every hotel that was way outside of our budget. We finally gave up and decided to take turns sleeping on a public bench until our tour at 8 AM started. Anyways, here were my favorite things to do in Kyrgyzstan!

Golden Eagle Hunters

By far one of the best experiences in Kyrgyzstan was seeing this ancient hunting tradition! You need to book a tour in advance; I highly recommend Asia Tours Kyrgyzstan. They were fantastic and took care of all the logistics.

Hot Springs

Check out the trek to Altyn Arashan — the best hot springs are about a ten minute walk from the manmade pools.

Stay in a yurt

Staying in a yurt is a great way to experience nomadic culture! You can find some beautiful yurts alongside Lake Issykkul. Again, if you go with Asia Tours Kyrgyzstan they can set everything up.

Burana Tower

Check out the beautiful architecture from the old Silk Road era! It’s on the way to Lake Issykkul if you’re heading in that direction.

Fairytale Canyon

The landscapes are incredibly diverse across Kyrgyzstan, and this canyon in particular almost reminds me of the southwest in the USA!

Everything you need to know about the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan

TAJIKISTAN

The Pamir Highway, also known as the Roof of the World, is a mesmerizing stretch of road that winds through the rugged and remote landscapes of Central Asia. Spanning over 1,200 kilometers, this legendary highway offers adventurers an unparalleled journey through Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, crossing towering mountain passes, ancient trade routes, and fascinating villages along the way. Driving along the Pamir Highway is a thrilling experience, with breathtaking vistas of snowy peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and dramatic gorges. It is not just a road, but a gateway to discover the cultural richness and natural beauty of this enchanting region. Whether you are an intrepid traveler seeking rugged terrains or a thrill-seeker wanting to conquer the highest-altitude highway in the world, the Pamir Highway is an unforgettable adventure that will leave you in awe of the wonders of Central Asia.

HOW TO GET TO DUSHANBE

Most fly into the airport, but I actually went overland via Samarkand, Uzbekistan. I took a Yandex (rideshare app) from the city to the border for about $7 USD, and once I was at the border there was a line of shared taxis that you can take five hours all the way to the capital of Dushanbe for $20 USD.

Entry to Tajikistan

At the time of entry, Tajikistan had just removed the visa requirement for Americans, but I had applied for an e-visa online in advance. The one benefit to doing that is you can check the box for the GBAO permit, which is the approval you need in order to do the full Pamir Highway. If you don’t apply for the evisa in advance, your guide for the Pamir Highway should be able to take you to the permit office to get it and it’s about $10 USD.

Where to Stay

Upon arrival in Dushanbe, I stayed at Green House Hostel, which is pretty centrally located in the city. It’s right off the main strip and the private rooms were spacious and the perfect place to relax before and after the Pamir Highway (I’ll get to why I returned to Dushanbe in a bit).

The pamir Highway

The Pamir Highway stretches more than 1200 km between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and is the second highest altitude highway in the world. I found a really cheap guide / driver for $1000, which included guesthouses, meals, and the driver himself. I actually found him on another travelers’ blog, who said really great things about him, but unfortunately I don’t feel like I can recommend him. I’m usually pretty easy-going, but he would FLY down the dirt passes and every time I asked if I could stop for a quick photo, he would groan and begrudgingly pull over.

We were trying to pass through to Khorog, which was the real start of the Pamir Highway, but there were protests going on and the police wouldn’t let us pass. We ran into a lovely Polish couple, who arrived at the checkpoint hours later (probably because they weren’t flying down the road hahaha). Their driver was wonderful and suggested I hitch a ride with them and they would do more “local” things while making our way back to Dushanbe. I was bummed I wouldn’t be able to continue with the original plan of finishing the Pamir Highway in Kyrgyzstan, but I was thrilled to experience local villages that I otherwise wouldn’t get to see. The second guide was wonderful so I’m linking his facebook page; I’ve tried sharing his whatsapp but it seems like he changes his number.

From Dushanbe I continued the journey onto Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan!

Best Uzbekistan Itinerary

Uzbekistan has become one of my favorite countries — the history, architecture, the people, and the food are all so amazing. Here are my top tips and best itinerary for Uzbekistan!

Tashkent

I wouldn’t say this is a “must see” city, but if you have time check out the Hazrati Imam complex, Chorsu bazaar, and wander the uniquely different metro stations!

Tip: Train is the most popular and easiest way of getting around the country. I highly recommend booking your tickets in advance online or going to the train station immediately upon arrival. I would have loved to explore Khiva, but unfortunately tickets were all sold out!

Samarkand

So much to see, so little time! The number one attraction is the Registan but make sure you arrive right when they open in the morning to avoid crowds. The light show at night is also unique. Shah-i-Zinda was another favorite!

Bukhara

Bukhara is an ancient city that’s an absolute must-see. My personal favorite spots were the Po-i-Kalyan complex, Chor Minor, and Ulugh Beg Madrasah!

Khiva

Like I mentioned previously, unfortunately I didn’t have time to visit Khiva due to the train tickets being sold out. I would have loved to visit Kalta Minor Minaret had I visited!

Best Monasteries in Armenia

Armenia is known to have beautiful monasteries throughout the country. Here are a few of my favorite monasteries in Armenia!

Khor Virap

On a clear day Khor Virap has an incredible view of the mountains of Turkey in the background.

Noravank

Noravank is nestled in the mountains of Armenia and has a beautiful backdrop. For the best photo, hike up the trails along the side to get a full view of the monastery.

Sevanavank

Sevanavank has an incredible view of the lake on a nice day. Early morning is nice to watch the sunrise and have a cup of coffee from a local shop nearby.

Most Instagrammable Places in Tbilisi

One of my favorite aspects of exploring new places is creating priceless memories to share with friends and family. I call it a “photography guide,” others might call it the “most Instagrammable places,” but here are my favorite spots in Tbilisi!

Orbeliani Baths

The historical outside is amazing to admire, but it’s also great to relax in its sulfur baths! I highly recommend using a wide angle lens since there’s not much space in front.

Kaleidoscope House

The colorful stained glass in this 19th century house is well-preserved, but stop by after 4 PM on a sunny day for the best lighting and colors.

Kalantarov House

Georgian interiors are incredibly stunning! This complex was closed when we went, but someone was kind enough to let us in to photograph the inside so be patient.

Tabor Monastery

This has one of the best views of all of Tbilisi, especially for sunset! You don’t even have to hike all the way up to the monastery for epic views!

The Best Georgia Road Trip

One of the best things to do in Georgia is to explore its quaint little mountain towns. If you’re short on time, Kazbegi is only 3.5 hours from Tbilisi but you can make a full day out of the trip! here are the best stops on a road trip from Tbilisi to Kazbegi!

Mtskheta & Jvari Monastery

Home to one of Georgia’s four UNESCO heritage sites, Mtskheta is a cute little town and you can get a great view from the monastery!

Ananuri Fortress

One of the most popular stops on the Georgian Military Road, check out this beautiful church! Photography tip, the best photo spot is from the nearby bridge on the highway.

Pasanauri

This town is "home of the khinkhali,” Georgia’s famous soup dumplings! Korbuda Restaurant had super tasty khinkali and khachapuri — definitely a must-try!

Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument

Besides the monument itself, this has the best photo spot for a view of the whole valley and mountains!

Sno Village

This small alpine village is home to these carved stone heads scattered around rolling fields. Each one is dedicated to one of Georgia’s beloved poets!

Everything you need to know about Nakhchivan

N A K H C H I V A N

An exclave of Azerbaijan, Nakhchivan is one of the most interesting places I’ve ever visited. When I was trying to find out more info on this region, I couldn’t find too much on the internet so I wanted to share everything I learned about visiting Nakhchivan!

How to get there

You can try booking directly on Azerbaijan Airlines’ website, but unfortunately that didn’t work for me when I tried planning for my trip. Not to worry, however, it’s extremely common to purchase tickets in-person! When you arrive at the international airport, exit the terminal and walk towards the right to the regional terminal. There, go through security and up the stairs to find the booking counter.

I was able to buy my tickets two days in advance for about $150 round trip. Even though it says you can pay with credit card, I wasn’t able to and had to pull out cash. There’s an easy ATM machine downstairs where you can withdraw from.

Where to Stay

Unfortunately there weren’t too many options for hotels, but I stayed at the Tebriz Hotel right in the heart of the city. The people at the front counter were extremely helpful and were able to assist me with a rental car. One person even accompanied me for the day!

Getting Around

To see all the sights, you need to rent a car. You won’t find much online, but when you arrive at the hotel just ask for a rental car and someone can help you. The front desk manager came with me to the location and was able to assist me easily.

What to See

If you’re efficient with your time, you can see everything in a single day. In the heart of the city, I recommend checking out Noah’s Mausoleum and Momine Khatun Mausoleum. Also check out Qarabaghlar Mausoleum, which is considered the most beautiful in all the region. Lastly, I loved the Alinja Castle for sunset!